Rust from rub rail

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

Maineiac wrote:

I took off the entire rub rail, dug it out and cleaned it. The hull deck joint is put together with butyl and underneath the stainless was filled with copious amounts of polysulfide. Once cleaned, I taped it off and re-filled with polysulfide, let it cure and put all the screws back in. I didn't have 316, and since it's only trim, I used 304 (18-8). I found I needed some 1.25" screws here and there to catch anything, since it IS in a gap. Once cured, the polysulfide will hold an errant screw. Actually, I think I went up on size on diameter, too. Check the taper to make sure the head fits cleanly on the stainless rub rail.

I cleaned the heck out of the stainless, got any rust stains off and waxed it front and back before re-installing. It's nice to have a platform and a couple loops of line to hang the far end of the stainless piece while you start the first screw or two.

When you recaulked with Polysulfide did you put just a large glob on let it cure and then put the stainless rub rail back on? Or did you caulk and install the rub rail immediately so they conformed?

You scraped out the hull to deck joint too or just the polysulfide on the outside?

Maineiac · **Posted:** 16 Dec 2020 16:06

I took the stainless off, noting (after awhile) where LONGER screws were coming from, and took a sharp knife, scraper and putty knife and dug all the loose shit out of the hull/deck joint. Cleaned it up hither and tither with acetone, taped it off and loaded it flat and fingered (rubber gloves) the polysulfide to make sure it was fully in all the nooks and crannies and not proud of where the stainless would sit. Let it cure - just thought - yeah, you don't want to keep messing with that stuff wet trying to put the stainless back on - that would not be fun- and had 2 size screws just in case. Maybe 1" screws and 1.25" or 1.5" screws? I used mostly the longer screws, but where one would stop when I was lightly and gingerly setting it, I'd carefully back it out and put in the shorter version.

Oh, I cleaned the stainless with oxalic acid and gave it a quick rinse. Wiped it dry and waxed both sides before I put it up.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

Maineiac wrote:

I took the stainless off, noting (after awhile) where LONGER screws were coming from, and took a sharp knife, scraper and putty knife and dug all the loose shit out of the hull/deck joint. Cleaned it up hither and tither with acetone, taped it off and loaded it flat and fingered (rubber gloves) the polysulfide to make sure it was fully in all the nooks and crannies and not proud of where the stainless would sit. Let it cure - just thought - yeah, you don't want to keep messing with that stuff wet trying to put the stainless back on - that would not be fun- and had 2 size screws just in case. Maybe 1" screws and 1.25" or 1.5" screws? I used mostly the longer screws, but where one would stop when I was lightly and gingerly setting it, I'd carefully back it out and put in the shorter version.

Oh, I cleaned the stainless with oxalic acid and gave it a quick rinse. Wiped it dry and waxed both sides before I put it up.

Why did you use polysulfide caulk vs something else? That's Lifecaulk correct? Roughly how many tubes did you go through? I need to order enough so I don't have to find more of the caulk in Mexico.

puffcard · **Posted:** 20 Dec 2020 13:33

We did this last Oct. While you have the rail off give it a buff/polish. We cleaned out the joint area well and behind the SS rail. Did use 316 screws. Think we used two 13oz tubes, one per side. I did use 4000UV, but it kicks very fast and skims before installing. So filled the joint and cured, then installed the rail, filling holes as you go. Looks great, buffing the SS keeps the rust down.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 20 Dec 2020 16:39

There's nothing to stick together, and polysulfide was what was in there, so I didn't figure and adhesive was necessary. It also holds the screws pretty good, since you're just pounding them into the joint. Ya. 2 tubes probably. I have 4200, 5200, lifecaulk, etc. I like the consistency of the cured polysulfide for this purpose. It will outlive me.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

puffcard wrote:

We did this last Oct. While you have the rail off give it a buff/polish. We cleaned out the joint area well and behind the SS rail. Did use 316 screws. Think we used two 13oz tubes, one per side. I did use 4000UV, but it kicks very fast and skims before installing. So filled the joint and cured, then installed the rail, filling holes as you go. Looks great, buffing the SS keeps the rust down.

What do you mean "filling holes as you go"? You let the sealant cure first then installed the railing afterwards.

It sounds like the sealant type doesn't make a huge difference whether polysulfide or 4200/4000 would work.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

I'm considering using TotalBoat Seal for this application. Does anyone see an issue with this?

http://www.totalboat.com/product/seal/

Maineiac · **Posted:** 21 Dec 2020 13:50

Quick read, seems fine to me. After you take the stainless off, run some tape above and below the hull/deck joint load it up and smooth it out as you go, and keep a pint of mineral spirits and clean rags nearby. Once you've got all the stainless off you'll realize how MUCH better what you're doing is than what was actually there for years (a great big gap).

puffcard · **Posted:** 22 Dec 2020 00:44

felizcortez wrote:

puffcard wrote:

We did this last Oct. While you have the rail off give it a buff/polish. We cleaned out the joint area well and behind the SS rail. Did use 316 screws. Think we used two 13oz tubes, one per side. I did use 4000UV, but it kicks very fast and skims before installing. So filled the joint and cured, then installed the rail, filling holes as you go. Looks great, buffing the SS keeps the rust down.

What do you mean "filling holes as you go"? You let the sealant cure first then installed the railing afterwards.

It sounds like the sealant type doesn't make a huge difference whether polysulfide or 4200/4000 would work.

I don't think with 4000UV you can assembly something as big as the rail before the sealant skims. After digging the old sealant out, we use a plastic wire brush on a drill to clean it up. Then I wiped with a solvent. After curing, brushed West into each hole, not to fill but to tighten it up and seal against any wicking. Filled the hull/deck crack with 4000UV let it sit to skim. Then installed the rail. Each screw and hole was coated with sealant. Something staying flexible is important with the rail. Those are good, wouldn't use 5200 or silicone.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 22 Dec 2020 08:53

Yeah, no to 5200 OR silicone. People patch stuff with both and cause me endless irritation. 5200 if never, ever again. Silicone does not belong on boats. It leaves a skim that never, ever completely disappears without a lot of work.

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Rust from rub rail

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