Loose-footed Mainsail

JPANEAVITT · **Joined:** 03 Nov 2010 12:23 **Posts:** 21

We have replaced our mainsail with a loose-footed mainsail. Our boom has a bolt-rope channel into which the old mainsail bolt rope along the foot of the main ran in the slot/channel. Our Outhaul car is a metal slide in the channel with a wire tail that passes around a turning block in the rear of the boom and then forward with a rope/wire splice to a rope and cleat on the boom. With the old main the outhaul frequently stuck in the hauled-tight position and to loosen it we often had to hit it with a winch handle to loosen it.
Any suggestion from sailors with loose-footed mains on their Tartans would be helpful. I also wonder how many of us have loose-footed mainsails and whether those who have them have experienced any difficulties with this arrangement.I want to avoid having to go forward to the gooseneck to adjust the outhaul or employ a small winch mounted on the boom.
Thanks for any input.
JPANeavitt

puffcard · **Posted:** 19 Dec 2015 21:05

JPANEAVITT wrote:

We have replaced our mainsail with a loose-footed mainsail. Our boom has a bolt-rope channel into which the old mainsail bolt rope along the foot of the main ran in the slot/channel. Our Outhaul car is a metal slide in the channel with a wire tail that passes around a turning block in the rear of the boom and then forward with a rope/wire splice to a rope and cleat on the boom. With the old main the outhaul frequently stuck in the hauled-tight position and to loosen it we often had to hit it with a winch handle to loosen it.
Any suggestion from sailors with loose-footed mains on their Tartans would be helpful. I also wonder how many of us have loose-footed mainsails and whether those who have them have experienced any difficulties with this arrangement.I want to avoid having to go forward to the gooseneck to adjust the outhaul or employ a small winch mounted on the boom.
Thanks for any input.
JPANeavitt

Loose footed main is the only way to go. My last two mains have been loose-footed and usually the outhaul works very easily, by hand before you sheet in. The loose-footed main is so easy to bend on and take of the boom. Shaping the sail and flattening the sail is also easier. The only downside is if someone wants to lay on the boom's windward size, can't do that anymore. Think you might have a hard time finding a sailmaker who doesn't make loose-footed. What type batten setup did you go with? We like the 2+2 (two top battens full) and if you plan on cruising get the second reef.

JPANEAVITT · **Joined:** 03 Nov 2010 12:23 **Posts:** 21

Thanks for the response. We did get a second reef point in the new sail. We also got the 2+2 batten arrangement, just as we had on the old main. Insofar as the down-side of not being able to lean back on the windward side of the main while propped up on the boom, we neveer did that anyway so this is no great loss.
I am trying to figure out how I can trim the outhaul from the cockpit by leading the outhaul line thru a block at the gooseneck, to another block at the cabintop and the mast and then back to the cockpit. maybe that's just being too lazy and the trip to the mast/boom would do me good.

KentB · **Posted:** 22 Dec 2015 08:12

We got a new Mainsail last season. Loose-footed, full battened, and a Tides Luff track system. With the tides installed, I can free-hand raise the main to about 1'-2' from full hoist before I put the halyard on a winch. We have 2 reef points - the second reef being pretty deep.
Next improvements we need (okay want) are lazy jack system, and halyards, vang, and outhaul led aft.
I don't mind the walk to the mast to do the work, but it can be a safety issue when most of the time this is done in shallow water near shore where the boat is riding rougher and less predictable.
Outhaul trim led to cockpit shouldn't be too hard to set up. We have a plate around the base of the mast with multiple attachment points for stand-up blocks, snatchblocks, snapshackles, etc. which makes placement of such hardware pretty easy.
I cannot remember the last time I have sailed or raced on a boat without a loose-footed main.

JPANEAVITT · **Joined:** 03 Nov 2010 12:23 **Posts:** 21

we, too, have our mainsheet, reefing lines and halyards (two jib and main halyard) led from blocks on the cabin top, aft thru line snubbers to the cockpit. I don't believe that rigging an outhaul pennant in a similar fashion to a cleat on the cabin top near the cockpit will be difficult to accomplish. I am only wondering whether I would need to install a 3 or 4 part block system on the outhaul pennant to get sufficient outhaul tension, especially with the captured outhaul car contained and running in the bolt rope channel on the top of the boom.

KentB · **Posted:** 22 Dec 2015 18:19

I would "cascade" a 4:1 purchase for an outhaul... of course you can always let off on the mainsheet a little first before pulling on outhaul. Wouldn't be that hard to cascade another block in there for 8-1 purchase. you could have one block at each direction of turn (on boom, on mast, and on deck) for a total of 8:1 that should be plenty.

7165 · **Joined:** 01 Dec 2013 04:38 **Posts:** 33

Hi Everyone... Merry Christmas and all the best in 2016!

While were on the topic of mainsails...

I have been debating getting a new mainsail for some time now and am interested in a ball park figure for what it costs. Before I get a lot of.... It depends on battens, reefs, material etc... I am just interested in knowing what to expect ( $$$ ) and perhaps pick a few brains on material and
supplier options as I'm sure many of you have researched this already.

Thanks for your time.
7165

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I got a loose footed, full battened mainsail from Pope Sails in Rockland, Maine for $2700 last year (with a discount for ordering in the Fall). It is the most beautifully setting main I have ever had on my T37 and this is the third mainsail I have had. I have had a couple sails made by this local loft and they all have been well made and I appreciate the personal attention and boat specific measurement Doug Pope provides. My other mains were made by the local North loft (before they were sending them offshore to be built) in San Francisco and were nicely made, but were nothing really special when they actually were used--they were just OK. I have come to value a local sailmaker that actually measures your boat and stands behind the product and is there when you need a minor adjustment or repair. I have seen some of the sails made by offshore outfits and some of them look well-made, but many look like they corners were cut in stitching and reinforcement. Most folks are using computer designs that vary a bit based on the area you sail and the kind of sailing you do, but construction details are the key to longevity. These vary.

Ray
T37 #373

JPANEAVITT · **Joined:** 03 Nov 2010 12:23 **Posts:** 21

Regarding our new loose-footed main, we ordered it through North Sails-Annapolis. We have always used Scott Allan as our sailmaker for prior sails. He was the UK Sails Annapolis operator and when we ordered prior sails, he did the measurements and design for our them while at UK. He re-joined North this past (2015) spring. He had all our dimensions on file from his previous sail design. We ordered a dacron, tri-radial loose-footed main with two full and two partial battens. It has double-reef cringles plus a cunningham. With all the extras, plus taxes the cost was just about $4,000 including the Fall Boatshow savings.

T37Chef · **Posted:** 09 Mar 2016 22:18

I just got a loose footed Mainsail Crosscut offshore Dacron and a 135 BiRadial cut offshore dacron cloth and "stack pack" style sail bag... all from Chesapeake Sailmakers in Annapolis.

Im impressed

Tartan37.com

Loose-footed Mainsail

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