What are the most common failures/repairs on a T37?

Offshore74 · **Joined:** 28 May 2016 12:20 **Posts:** 2

I'm in the market for a T37 and really curious what others have found to be common repairs or failures on a 25+ year old Tartan. I feel like the quality of these boats, the design and craftsmanship are top notch. And I love the design. But like anything that ages, what typically comes up as a common repair? I have heard that the chainplates are hard to get to, or check for corrosion, and that access while surveying one of these boats can be limited because of the cabinetry/woodwork...would be great to hear if there is anything else others have experienced.

WayneH · **Posted:** 14 Jun 2016 14:42

Lack of maintenance on the forward hatch caulking leads to bulkhead failure on the top of the bulkheads just aft of the hatch. I've replaced both of mine. And because I had a crack on the lower swage fitting for the backstay, I replaced all of my stays two years ago. We changed the oil in the Beast about once a week when we first got our boat because she sat around for a while and we wanted to purge the crankcase. It may not have been necessary but we had not owned a diesel engine before this and it made the Admiral feel good.

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

A few things you should check that are specific to the T37c:

1. C/B pennant;
2. Pennant padeye on C/B;
3. C/B hinge pin assembly;
4. Rudder pintle.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

Wayne and Jim have, I think, nailed the key issues in these very strong vessels. If I can elaborate, the forward hatch, like many on production boats, is fastened with self tapping screws. I do not recommend changing this, but--like many boats--the deck flexes imperceptibly under load and these screws will loosen over time and can develop leaks into the deck as described--if left to leak long enough it could affect the bulkheads as water will find its way down through the deck. Through bolting will just make an express lane for leaking when the deck flexes (you will not see flexing happening--it is subtle). Some folks replace the very rigid original cast Akins Hoyle hatches thinking the hatch is leaking, but most replacement hatches are extruded aluminum frames and I doubt if that improves things in the long run. I have had to reset mine 3X in 24 years of hard sailing and have had not had a problem with leaking.
I also would say that you should check the pintle and the solidness of the strut where it is bolted to the hull--some have corroded or have come loose and leak. The pintle is a composite bearing that can wear or the whole frame can loosen over time from flexing. It is not a difficult repair but could be expensive if you have a yard do it. It requires removing the fiberglass shell over the skeg and dropping the rudder. Shake the rudder when the boat is on the hard--should not be much play or you will need to attend to this. I did mine 20 years ago and it is still OK after 20k+ miles.
The old Westerbekes are OK engines and will run a long time if maintained, but the weakness--as with most marinized diesels--is in the raw water system: salt water pump and heat exchangers; there are two of them. This can all be fixed and parts are still available if very pricey. I recommend that you educate yourself in the maintenance of the heat exhanger (zinc replacment and cleaning) and carry some spares if you go anywhere.
I used to deliver boats and picked my Tartan because of the comparative build quality and its superb sea keeping and sailing qualities and found it to be a good choice over the thousands of miles and years of ownership.

Ray Durkee
T 37 #373
Velera

Tartan37.com

What are the most common failures/repairs on a T37?

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