Centerboard Padeye Maintenance

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

I wonder if it would be worthwhile to install some threaded inserts. I suppose I'll make an assessment by running a tap through those holes. Of course, at least one of them has the rotting remnants of a bolt inside. I didn't realize these bolts were through laminate and not lead.

Maybe something like this? https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inser ... r-plastic/

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Lunacy 198 wrote:

I just looked at your McMaster Carr link - it says that insert is brass which is copper/tin alloy. That would not last long in saltwater. Clicking the search on that page shows other threaded inserts like stainless but look at the stainless bolts you removed (prob 305 / 18-8 alloy). They do have titanium but only up to 3/8" which I guess could be strong enough, but they are only screwing into fiberglass laminate that based on several posts (including mine) have not provided a solid substrate for the threads.

I took a closer look at the threads on the keel. It seems that they are some type of composite inert. I ran a tap into each one and the threads seem fine. 5/6 are good full depth. The 6th is the one where half the bolt is still lodged inside. So, my plan will be to see if I can remove that bolt. If I can then I have 6 decent threaded inserts and all I need to do is replace the bolts with 316 stainless. If I can't then it's plan B (perhaps drill another hole and insert a lag or just use a shorter bolt in existing hole). I'm just not going to concern myself with corrosion - just check the bolts every year or two and replace as necessary.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

I had a bolt broken off in one of the threaded holes as well. I wanted to drill it without screwing up the threads to get an easy out on the bolt. I took one of the bolts and cut it so just the threads remained then drilled through the center so I had a sleeve that would guide the drill. I threaded the sleeve into the hole with the stuck bolt then drilled into the bad bolt. This gave me a centered hole on the bolt and allowed me to get an easy out into it. The bad bolt came out with no damage to the threads.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

A few quick questions.

1. I didn't take pictures of the hinge on the board and now I'm not sure of the correct orientation. Does the shaft of the hinge go towards the front of the boat or the rear when the hinge is installed?

2. My hinge was faired in with 407 filler before I removed it. Should I do the same again or leave it unfaired? If unfaired should I barrier coat the hinge?

3. I tapped the bolt holes for the padeye on the board. I was going to put some loctite on the threads and then some 4000uv to seal the bolt holes. Any other suggestions?

4. Should I apply any sealant on the bolts on the hinge?

Maineiac · **Posted:** 30 Dec 2020 10:33

1.) Based on this old photo, I'd say the hinge pin favors aft. But my board is binding slightly to port. I believe mine was grounded at some point and monkeyed up the assembly a little. The threads are also very loose. They don't look worn, just loose in the receiver. I'm thinking of just dropping it again and fabricating a new one.
2.) Good question. Mine was faired, and I re-did it with 407. If I fabricate a new one for the very few times I need the board to windward I will probably just re-fair the assembly with 407.
3.) I got nothing on the board bolt holes. Mine was in mint condition when I took it out. Loctite can't hurt.
4.) Frankly, I'm not sure. I like a dab of 4200 so things can't loosen and maybe separating dissimilar metals (like the lead in the keel).

Maineiac · **Posted:** 30 Dec 2020 15:57

Lunacy 198 wrote:

I looked at the image of the board in the trunk and now I'm questioning my earlier response. I have the board and bracket in the garage. I'll reply again after I double check it.

If I had to guess, reaching back into my cobwebbed, brown stained, addled memory, I'd say the threads are to port. Meaning the female side to port. HOWEVER, this isn't saying some aren't made the opposite. BUT, what I thought I was looking at is the pin itself is slightly aft on my photo, which should lead to the correct answer.

We're looking at the starboard side of your board. Is it possible you did what I did when I was installing the Newfound portlights, making all the new cutouts to surround the new lights, and marked something "S" when it might've been "P"?

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

Here are the pictures I dug up from when I removed the board during the haulout. It looks to me like the pin is closer to the front of the boat, but i'm not totally sure.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 31 Dec 2020 08:09

I think the previous owner of my boat had the yard monkeys pull the centerboard and they really didn't know what they were doing. It is not inconceiveable that they re-installed wrong. Which may be why my board binds to port. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 193

I think my pin is closer to the bow.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 31 Dec 2020 14:45

Now I'm going to drop mine and reverse it and see if it still binds to port. After the snow melts. It is not inconceivable the yard monkeys screwed up. Happy New Year.

Tartan37.com

Centerboard Padeye Maintenance

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