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 Post subject: Centerboard
PostPosted: 10 Aug 2019 20:42 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
I'm too tired to figure out how to post any photos. Either the rumor about Great Lakes boats is true, or someone redid the centerboard in this thing. After I got fed up with compounding the gelcoat, I went for the centerboard. It was almost dark. I got the spooge out of the way and the bolts out in 10 minutes. But, to my chagrin, the yard blocked me 1.25" too close together. Board doesn't look like its ever been out. Stainless is like new, was buried in resin. Guess where the bolts are, put a chisel up against the steel, a couple taps and the whole plug popped off both sides. Shiny stainless, but old, old looking resin. I think this may be factory. Only 5 bolts, one head missing. Came out pretty easy. The Kid has to come down and provide some adult supervision in the morning while I see if I can jimmy the board out of there by putting it back in the slot and dropping the front end first. Maybe. The board is painted a beige color and doesn't look like its ever had any bottom paint on it. It was basically held in with bivalves. Mussels. Millions of them. Would it be untoward of me to add lock washers to these bolts? That's what I'm going to do on the pintle inside, since three out of four of the nylocs don't reach the nylon.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 12 Aug 2019 16:24 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
I won. After too many hours fiddling on a weekend, determined the yard and the board were not going to win. Board and all fittings look great. Heavy little monkey to lug around alone. I had to cut a "vee" in the forward blocking and knock a corner off the aft blocking and I finally got it out. Two high capacity lithium batteries and a sawzall later on wet hemlock blocking. What an ordeal. Board was just caked with a fine coating of light brown mud, had bottom paint on it at some point. I can re-reeve the pennant, put a new tube on it, and slap everything back together after pressure washing out the trunk. Then I'm going to put a green scrubby on a stick, spray acetone up in, scrub the hell out of it, then spray a couple coats of barrier coat up in, followed by a couple coats of Micron 66. The board gets touched up and same treatment. Not perfect, but better than the raw fiberglass that is in there.

I am getting to like this boat better and better. Except the blocking now prevents me from getting at the broken bolt and trying to extract/replace that. It's up inside the threads a bit, and 6 is always better than 5.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 12 Aug 2019 21:54 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 372
Dropping our center-board this fall, been out a few times. Hope it goes as well. We usually have the yard hold us before blocking up and drop the board.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 14 Aug 2019 07:30 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
If you block 3 high and clear the forward hinge pin, and block as far back on the non-hollow (the very aft end is hollow) keel, it drops right out. The width of the trunk opening lets you tilt it a little one way or the other and slide her out. I'll measure. I have to run down to the yard for a minute before working today. I think I'm at the minimum height, but didn't leave enough space aft, causing the necessity of sawzall sculpture on the blocking. I'd rather have the time to fiddle with everything out, then in, rather than some guy sitting on the travel lift waiting while I rush taking out spooge over the nuts, then six nuts (well, 5 and have to figure out how to get that broken one out), then drop only to have to reverse the process when back in the slings. I'll get the precise measurement and report back. I can do it all on the blocking, maintenance, etc., without being rushed. The only disadvantage is it blocks on the radius of the forward end of the keel, and I just can't get straight at the forward bolt where the head snapped off to drill and get it out.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 27 Aug 2019 06:23 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
Inside trunk pennant thru hull


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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 31 Aug 2019 06:39 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
The bottom of the keel has to be blocked 21.5" high and at LEAST 62" apart with the forward blocking as absolutely far forward toward the curvature of the forward end of the keel as possible. My problem was the blocking was criss-crossed, with the bottom two blocks aligned parallel with the keel. I had to whittle out one side next to the ground in order to tilt the centerboard out. Working on finishing stripping the hull back to gelcoat, Petit barrier coat, Micron 66 bottom paint. I'd still like to get out of here this fall, but that's a coin toss.

And for this Labor Day weekend . . . hi ho, hi ho. Back to the boatyard. Glad I'm not halfway down the Atlantic Coast somewhere. Damn Dorian could actually hit ANYWHERE, including up here once she starts riding the Gulf Stream. A buddy called, standing in the eye, when it passed over my house in St. Thomas. "Very impressive." They got 111 mph winds, but only 2 hours before the eye, 2 hours after and done. A few trees down. His biggest focus was ". . . must conserve beer."


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 04 Sep 2019 09:20 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
Defeated on heading south. Friggin' yard is moving me yet once again for their convenience, which means the entire work area I have set up, tables, tools, tarps, is heading somewhere unknown. Probably a good thing, get some refrigeration in, mount the windlass, new running rigging, look at self steering gear, tear the W-50 down, redo all the plumbing, work on the electrical and come up with a new battery system, update the 10 year old Raytheon (doesn't play well with others) gear and find anything else of potential concern. Shrink wrap it for the winter. St. Thomas by June, maybe off to Tobago for the next hurricane season. The boats near my slip area at Independent Boatyard (St. Thomas) sustained two Cat 5 storms in Irmaria, mostly with just mast damage waving back and forth. I'd unstep the mast ahead of the weather if I stayed in STT, take the rigging home and stash the mast somewhere safe.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 09 Sep 2019 11:26 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
Well, I got 3 coats of barrier coat and a coat of Micron 66 shoved up into the centerboard trunk. 2" brush on a stick and little foam roller on a stick. One more coat and the hell with it. I'll put 3 on the centerboard. I got 7/16" Dyneema for the pennant. The original "tube" on top of the centerboard seems to be O.K., so I'm just going to re-use it. It was taped (electrical tape) to the pennant. I'm going to throw some stitches in it with needle and lashing twine to keep it where it needs to be when the centerboard goes up and down.

Got the stainless cap rail back on (alone) by hanging lines from stanchions. If you ever take it off, buy 1" and 1.5" stainless screws #10. It's fitted with #8's but 10's hold better. I set the clutch on the drill to about "16" so I didn't snap heads off. Ideally, use 1.5" screws. BUT if it stops while you're driving it, STOP, back it out, and put in a 1" screw. I used mostly 1.5", but put in a number of 1" where the larger ones wouldn't go. I used Life Caulk polysulfide to fill the hull/deck joint and everything went back together nicely. This side I think I only spun one of the 1" screws. I can't say if filling that joint with thickened epoxy, as I've seen mentioned, would be a good idea. You'd have to drill for the screws. The hull/deck joint was originally bedded in gray butyl (still sticky) and polysulfide added to fill the gap below the toerail. I think putting anything else in there might be a pain. I've got a ton of photos, but have never figured out the easy way to post them, and after I post one, I pretty much forget how I did it.

Off to the Virgin Islands Saturday at 3AM for a Jet Blue flight out of Boston. Work to do down there, then back in a week and think about winterize the boat so I can do interior work occasionally over the winter. Hopefully off to the south around May 1.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 11 Sep 2019 16:58 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 271
Location: Maine/USVI
Tried last night to get the centerboard back in and no joy. The boat had settled on the blocking just enough to prevent getting it in.

THEN, this morning, while on the hydraulic trailer, I had everything lined up and the board within 3 inches of where it needed to be. Wouldn't go. Jammed pennant. All I can figure is when I stitched the pennant tube to the pennant next to the centerboard padeye, I left about 1.5" from the bowline to the tube end. And the other end of the tube hit the thru hull sooner than it should have. Rethink and fix when I get back from St. Thomas. I blocked the boat (they HAD to move me to get a mast behind me) 23" high forward and 21.5" high aft 65" apart MY WAY (instead of theirs) leaving room to get at that broken stbd fwd bolt in the centerboard hinge that needs to be removed and replaced and enough room to get the centerboard in freely from the side. Now I'm on gravel, so I can actually trench under the boat a little if I have to, which I shouldn't but it could settle. This time around I'll have the Kid come down so's there's some adult supervision around. The bottom scraping is pretty much done, so his excuses for not coming down should abate somewhat. Besides, now I can finish fairing the centerboard trunk and get the barrier coat on it and get another coat of Micron 66 on the centerboard. Screw boatyards. That's the 5th "move" since I bought the boat. Had I known then what I know now, it could have stayed right where it was originally.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard
PostPosted: 11 Sep 2019 17:53 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 372
We dropped the board before blocking, so easy it came out in 10 minutes. Well I decided to replace the pendent thru-hull. Looked worse from the inside of the boat, it actually was in good shape. I was able to remove it from inside the boat. Now I'm wondering, how am I getting the new one back in. My grandson (my undocumented worker), with long skinny arm is still about four inches short. Guess I need to make a tool to hold the inside of the thru-hull and reach the hole.

_________________
Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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