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 Post subject: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2018 11:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 10 Dec 2006 15:14
Posts: 199
Location: London, Ontario
My spreaders have aluminum ends that encapsulate the shroud. These are screwed on with 1/4 inch stainless machine screws with slotted heads that are recessed slightly. The problem I am having is typical for stainless in aluminum and the screws are frozen. I have tried penetrating oils, impact driver and mild heat (heat gun) to no avail. I am reluctant to put too much heat (torch) as I might heat up the shroud too much and compromise the strength.
Any Ideas would be welcome


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2018 13:23 
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Tactictian

Joined: 21 Jan 2010 12:57
Posts: 146
When accomplishing this on my rig, the use of a torch was essential. Nothing that I tried worked save for lots of heat.I was replacing the uppers, so wasn't concerned about that, but don't recall the wire getting all that hot. I do remember wishing that I'd had a second person to apply the heat while I torqued on the machine screw-I could only get a a partial turn and the spreader end would cool down and seize the fastener.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2018 20:44 
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Tactictian

Joined: 29 Dec 2010 10:24
Posts: 137
A couple of mine I had to use a die grinder and remove the screw head,then remove the cap ,then heat and vice grips on the remaining stud.

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Hull #6


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2018 22:12 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 438
I got mine out with a torch. You are likely going to need Map Gas, not just propane or butane because it is hotter. Work it more than once and let the Pblaster soak. You need to heat it like you never heated— and you might need an impact tool as well. When I got mine out, I tapped the holes to the next larger size and increased the bevel for the screw heads. I goop them up with clear silicone every time I put the rig together and they still come out easily every season even after 15 years.
Ray Durkee
T37 #373


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 12 Feb 2018 07:47 
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Grinder

Joined: 04 Aug 2013 13:33
Posts: 86
I have successfully used a drill impact driver that can be adjusted to apply varying amounts of torque after rapid heating. Somehow that tap-tap-tap-tap application of torque seems to eventually work it free where a wrench would have striped a head.

Remember that the trick to using heat is rapid application to take advantage of the different thermal expansion rates of the two metals creating sheer as aluminum expands faster than steel - and immediately applying torque.

Afterward, use a product specifically for preventing galvanic corrosion like Lanocote - a jar will last a lifetime.
Good luck !

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Dave Lorick
Lunacy #198
Tampa, FL


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 13 Feb 2018 07:52 
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Grinder

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 79
You might try to get the area very warm throughout (maybe a heat gun instead of a torch) so that the warmth goes through the metal. Then apply a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission oil. Let sit for awhile (day or more).


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the spreader ends
PostPosted: 22 Feb 2018 15:22 
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Grinder

Joined: 22 Jun 2008 10:54
Posts: 79
I second the 50/50 acetone/ATF. The ss prop for the mid cabin hatch on my 37 refused to move being ss into aluminium. I hit it with PBlaster every week for overr a month with no success. I then went to 50/50 Acetone and ATF for two applications and I got it to move. Now it is my got to when I have a stuck fastener.


cseltzjr wrote:
You might try to get the area very warm throughout (maybe a heat gun instead of a torch) so that the warmth goes through the metal. Then apply a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission oil. Let sit for awhile (day or more).

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Neal Musto
T37 #31
Abraxas


 
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