insulated reefer lid

conch · **Joined:** 21 Jan 2010 12:57 **Posts:** 168

Does anyone know if Tartan provided an insulated hatch where the interior of the reefer is accessed? Mine is just plywood, which clearly is inadequate. I'd sure like to buy a molded "plug" which would secure to the bottom (inside) of the lid, which I could fill with foam. Alternately, if someone has a boat with the lid already insulated, making a female mold of the portion of it that extends"down" would be an option. It's going to require beaucoup hours to make it from scratch. Thanks for any response

scubaseas · **Posted:** 30 Jun 2016 08:26

New to the site not yet owning a T37-2 but soon we hope. I have a Pearson 323 that I put in vacuum panels and a new hatch. Got them from

www.pacificseabreeze.com/products/ready ... ox_hatches

There are a few places you can get pre-made top hatches. Measure twice, cut once. I love theory. Think of it as an opportunity to upgrade the counter top. Hope this helps.

conch · **Joined:** 21 Jan 2010 12:57 **Posts:** 168

Thanks, Scubaseas: Perhaps this will motivate me to improve the reefer on my boat-it needs it

WayneH · **Posted:** 30 Jun 2016 19:30

I had some planks of foam that I bought at Hobby Lobby. You know, white, 4 foot long and about an inch thick. I glued a piece to the bare hatch cover and left the wood on the other hatch cover. The wood side still sweats in the summer humidity but the foam side doesn't. I haven't got brave enough yet to replace the board with foam but that is coming. I 'think' we used contact cement to glue the foam but my memory function has a few holes in it these days. Snicker

sord · **Posted:** 01 Jul 2016 11:08

When I saw this posting I thought 'Oh great I need to do that with my covers' When I saw the price ($600 +) I had second thoughts.
I have a background in making molds so I will take on that myself. I presume we all have the same size covers on most T37s (two by 14.25" x 14.75").
If I can do this and have something similar to the Glacier Bay model is there any interest in my making multiples and offering them at a much lower cost ($100 - $150 pair). They would be west system and glass and fit to your current lid. Let me know of your interest by private message as I would adjust my mold to making multiples if there is a demand.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Not sure if private messages are going through. I also tried to email. I am definitely interested in the reefer lids. Let me know the details. Zach

conch · **Joined:** 21 Jan 2010 12:57 **Posts:** 168

Sord: I private messaged you as well: perhaps it's not functioning. I'd love to buy the "plugs" for each of the lids. Is it presumptious to assume that the permanent flange into which the lids sit is the exact same dimension for all ofmour boats?

puffcard · **Posted:** 18 Jul 2016 21:57

I used 2in of white minicell foam to insulate my reefer box lid, it looks ok and you heard it pull a vac seal when opening. The amount of amp/hrs it saves in a day is great and the no sweating is nice. I bet the plugs look very good.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

I ordered a 2" piece of the white minicell (24"X48"). Any advice or tips on cutting it, what to use for adhesive, and any issues ran into when choosing placement of it appreciated. Do you make it ever so slightly larger than the measurements so that it presses against the sides and against the other piece in the middle? Thanks, Zach

conch · **Joined:** 21 Jan 2010 12:57 **Posts:** 168

Well, one must assume that a marriage of the lid and the perimeter of the opening that is close enough to resist air intrusion is to be striven for. In envisioning the fabrication of fiberglass "plugs" to be secured to the bottom of the existing plywood lids, I think of cutting plywood copies of the lids with enough of their inner mass cut out so whats left is a perimeter rim that allows access from the top to the inside. Then one needs to secure flexible 2"+/- strips to the bottom of these lid perimeters conforming to the angled fiberglass liner forming the opening into the box. That should create a "perfect" fit between the lid and the carcass. The "glass" plug would then be removed from the temporary lids and secured to the "real" lid and filled with foam.
One wonders if the time involved in creating these items is justified in lieu of just securing a piece of the two inch foam as the previous poster describes; the latter will be 1000% better than what's there now.

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insulated reefer lid

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