Skeg "flap" repair.

KentB · **Posted:** 15 Apr 2015 09:02

Just uncovered "Skybird" hull #4 yesterday. (just purchased and delivered to Toledo from Maryland in the fall).
The skeg flaps appear to have been damaged and then trimmed back neaty maybe about 1-1/2" or so to make it look neat. Unfortunately, this not only looks slow but appears to be quite inviting to the zebra mussels. (See attached pics). So I think i will grind the area down and add glass to extend the flaps. Anyone have any good pics of what the flaps are supposed to look like?
Also the leading edge of the bottom of the keel (in front of the steel hinge piece) [/img]appears to have been bounced repeatedly Over the bottom of the Chesapeake. Anyone have any pics of what it is supposed to look like? I think this needs quite a bit of glass to fill back in. I am afraid a grounding in Western Lake Erie would force sand/mud/gravel right into the centerboard trunk and hinge pin😱 (See pic again)[img]

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 191

Hi Kent,took these today for you,none are mine,the 'rougher' looking one has flaps of thin stainless,the others,and mine, are plastic or FRP ,they are all sitting on the part of the keel you want a pic of!!! Hope this helps,regards, Bruce. Bye the way,you will not keep out zebra muscles,it may be better to have enough gap to get a small antifouling brush in there.

KentB · **Posted:** 21 Apr 2015 07:39

Yep zebra mussel larvae can get in any space...but I notice they prefer spots where they can get some sunlight.
But you bring up a good point in how to clean be tween skeg and rudder. Neutral

I planned on just glassing the extensions back, but hadn't thought of a stainless or plastic flap. Would be nice to make it removable for maintenance.
Guess I need to come up with something that looks fast and yet is practical.
maybe a plastic piece on a stainless piano hinge? Seems too complicated and clunky...
coming from a racing background and a lake with no crab pots, not a huge fan of the skeg, but fee it is a necessary part of the design.

Thanks for the pics! I feel better about ours now...

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I am not sure I am following this thread correctly, but the pictures of the "flaps" show a gap in the rudder that I believe you are supposed to just fill with epoxy fairing compound after you remove the rudder---you have to chip it out each time to raise the rudder off the pintle. I think there is a drawing and explanation of this on the T37 site in the tech section. Sparkman and Stephens sent me a diagram with the instructions more than a decade ago. You do not need a special flap over this gap beyond the skeg covering. I have removed my rudder a couple times in the 22 years of ownership and each time had to refill this area.

Ray
#373

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Ray,
I left that epoxy plug off of mine when I reinstalled my rudder the last time thinking that it would be impossible for the rudder to raise off the pintle since the top of the rudder only has about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance anyway and the only way for it to drop would be for the pintle to drop. So, the main reason for having this plug would be for hydrodynamic efficiency? Thoughts?

Destiny · **Joined:** 14 Jan 2014 18:32 **Posts:** 39

not a racer so not that worried about hydrodynamics but covering that area does make some sense.
Maybe better, easier to prepare the area and then just cover with a thin, single layer of fibreglass?
back it with foam insert if concerned over shape. That way if needed would be oh so much easier to open up again in the future. instead of chipping or cutting out something solid.

KentB · **Posted:** 22 Apr 2015 19:26

If you look at the first picture, it is hard to see, but the trailing edges of the skeg or "flaps" as I am calling them were damaged the trimmed neatly by the PO. This means there is a much larger gap there that doesn't look very fast, but also invites more light in there which the zebra mussels will like.
Was looking for ideas or dimensions or recommended gap between skeg and rudder.
My idea was to cover the front edge of the rudder with a spacing material (such as a piece of cardboard or vinyl) Then wax paper over that to make it easy to release from the rudder. I will try and show pics when it's done. Unless someone has a better idea.
thanks for the info on filling the lower gudgeon gap. I hadn't thought that through yet. Ifor anyone has drawings or remembers any specifics on the S&S instructions I would love to review them.

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Two years ago I screwed strips of conveyer belt material on the leading edge, and except for a few popped out screws it worked well. There are a lot of different types and stiffness of conveyer belt material so you just have to check them all out. Not cheap and antifouling doesn't stay on it, so will try dinghy antifouling next time,

Richard

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

Leaving that gap open is a drag. If you race, I would plug it. Probably about the drag of towing a couple of fenders in the water.

Tartan37.com

Skeg "flap" repair.

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