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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 10 Feb 2020 10:48 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 01 Nov 2006 10:53
Posts: 35
If you are going to use that 6" hole saw in the picture to cut the access hole don't do it. I tried that the tork ripped the drill right out of my hands. I used a saber saw with metal cutting blade after out lining the access hole and drilling an entry hole for the saber saw blade. It worked great and then vacuumed out the metal filings from the tank and wiped it down.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank wrap-up
PostPosted: 16 Mar 2020 21:23 
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Midshipman

Joined: 24 Feb 2014 00:12
Posts: 51
Erewhon's tank is now in. Attached are a few pictures of the improved tank.
-3 new access hatches installed with a reinforcement ring and blind holes for the machine screw and gasket.
-The leaky bottom low corner of the tank was cut off and a plate welded on. In the picture a small portion of the pick-up tube got cut off. The welder said this entire corner was packed full of shamg. So last summer my fuel was getting filtered through this media.
-An additional pick-up tube was added for a future diesel heater.
-I removed some rot in the plywood partition wall and added new glass and a large weep hole to drain any water that may get into the hold that the tank lives.-
-Tank thoroughly cleaned, rest of the tank was in good shape.
-Note the larger square aluminum plates in the picture was from a previous tank cleaning and not part of this work.
-Humbug in Southeast Gibraltar Michigan did the work to the tank. I delivered the tank to the shop and it was done on time and to the quote. Ask for Will the service manager that also did the work.
Cost was about $1200.
Hope this info is helpful to the group.


Attachments:
Diesel tank hatch cover design.pdf [1.66 MB]
Downloaded 4 times
New Plate at Corner.jpg
New Plate at Corner.jpg [ 3.52 MB | Viewed 0 times ]
New Access Hatch2.jpg
New Access Hatch2.jpg [ 4.18 MB | Viewed 0 times ]
Corner cut away.jpg
Corner cut away.jpg [ 3.57 MB | Viewed 0 times ]
 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 01 Dec 2020 15:28 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 23 Nov 2020 08:00
Posts: 17
My hull is a 1984 the wood panel top was screwed down with wood screws i removed lifted off 3 access plates on aluminum tank top manufacturers name on plate.i had diesel smell when bought but years of neglect had bilges oily and possible diesel. but tank was empty. Cleaned tank sides and bottom with clean absorbent paper towel half sheets Going to pressure test tank prior to new engine install to verify no leaks.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 01 Dec 2020 17:33 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 495
Location: Norfolk, Va
If fuel tan is out. Pressure test and look for pitting in bottom corner. We sanded, did a vinegar wash and use fresh water after that. Dry and coat with Gluvit epoxy coating, it's an old school epoxy but works so well on alum. It's a very thick coating.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 02 Dec 2020 09:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Gluv-it is my standard operating procedure on all new tank installations. Have done it on all refit/retanks/repairs. It works. Surface prep is important.

And now, because I'm an idiot, I'm going to go look at a '92 Dusky 256 that I KNOW has a bad tank and no way to get at it without major surgery. But I'm enamored with that 300 Yamaha. And the need to fish - dammit, it's wahoo season.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 28 Feb 2021 20:04 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 28 Sep 2015 23:39
Posts: 10
ummm... most probably a dumb question, but the Gluv-it epoxy coating goes inside the tank, or outside?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2021 07:41 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Clean the hell out of the exterior surface, degrease, then acetone, then wipedown, then I put white vinegar in a spray bottle and hit every square centimeter, let it dry and wipe one more time with a clean terry cloth towel and gob it up with Gluv-it. Of course, with proper maintenance, and occasional cleanout, a dry tank will work fine. The trouble with these tanks is the low corner as shown in one of the photos. Water pools there and eats through. All diesel has some water in it. While the Gluv-it will slow down the ultimate disaster, it won't stop that corrosion. Maybe part of the annual layup should be getting in there and cleaning the whole thing out, no fuel in tank over winter. Or a low point drain of some sort (impractical). I had a stainless tank leak out on me in my Bristol 35 because water sat in one (flat) spot in the middle of the tank for too long. It only took a year or so while it was on the hard. One tiny pinhole was all I could find. When I cut the tank out it looked way worse on the inside, in the shape of a water bubble.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing fuel tank
PostPosted: 09 Jun 2021 17:19 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Nov 2020 18:02
Posts: 5
My fuel tank was made by Tempo Products Company in 197? (the last digit didn’t make it onto the mfg label!), model number FT 53 6000X. I’m about to put in an inspection port or two for clean out. Anyone have any info on the location of baffles inside these tanks? I figured I could just drill a small pilot port and feel around, but a position of knowledge is a good place to start.
FWIW; I bought IP with non-marine fuel hose on the return line, and it disintegrated from within. My fuel polisher isn’t powerful enough to vacuum up the particulates, but I’m hoping I’ve got rid of any water from the bottom of the tank and can avoid the corrosion problems others have had.
Thanks
BJ


 
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