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The time is 25 Feb 2021 06:21

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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Thru Hull
PostPosted: 19 Jan 2021 08:05 
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Skipper

Joined: 04 Aug 2013 13:33
Posts: 315
I think it was a bronze fitting, not a pipe with the machine thread side put into the trunk from inside the boat so the threads showed in the top of the well and hose barb (and nut shoulder) showing inside the boat. I may have put a bronze washer over it - I don't recall. After everything appeared to go together, it was taken apart and sealant put around the opening inside the well. The fitting was replaced and then the nut was applied. After tightening, there was a nice generous ooze of sealant around the nut.

I thought something would have to hold the nut in place while turning the fitting inside the boat but the surface was rough enough that by pulling on the fitting inside the boat (after the nut was started) it stayed in place until everything was tightenend up. (If I read this I would think that this is too difficult to replicate, but that's what I did).

This could not have been done without good access to this area, so work with the yard when they block it. If I faced, since it is a leak it must be fixed, so I'd take everything apart, clean up the area and then find a solution. There is a post one this site of someone that cut the glass area out and reglassed it with a knurled pipe end and rest was bent and turning up the mast for the pennant. I like the idea of a bit of hose to allow flexing, but...

Good luck with this repair and let us know the outcome.

_________________
Dave Lorick
Lunacy #198
Tampa, FL


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Thru Hull
PostPosted: 19 Jan 2021 15:28 
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Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 154
I'm leaning towards cutting an access hole at the top of the box in the floor. I am assuming I will have to drop the board to undo the pendant etc and may take it off since I'm not sure how high in the trunk the board rides. E.g. if I cut the top of the box off am I going to hit the board when I cut into it.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Thru Hull
PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021 09:51 
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Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 154
We finished this repair today. We left the mast in the boat and did everything in place. I was able to use a 1/4 drive ratchet to loosen the hose clamps and cut the hose off with a utility knife. The old thru hull came out by hand when I loosened the nut. The old sealant had failed and was what was causing our leak We dropped the board and cut an access hole at the top of the trunk. To get access to the inside of the hole.

The stainless pipe had crevice corrosion where the old hose was sitting on it, so I used a die grinder and ground out the bad material (took off about an inch)
I decided I didn't like the hose on pipe threads of the old installation. We glassed in a 1 inch OD piece of G10 fiberglass tube and sleeved it with UHMW we had machined to fit. This was all epoxied in place after I pushed the hose up on the stainless pipe far enough to get access. All of this was done with the mast in place which makes for some tight access.

I glued the old piece back in with some thickened epoxy and then covered it with 2 layers of 1708 biaxial and 2 layers of 6 oz cloth plus peel ply.

We should be splashing very soon, but I think this is a definite upgrade to the previous installation.


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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Thru Hull
PostPosted: 22 Feb 2021 20:00 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 519
Location: Maine/USVI
Looks good!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Thru Hull
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2021 08:30 
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Midshipman

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 53
Slick repair. Did you file smooth the inside edge of your G10 pipe? I would be concerned with chafe on the line. I would also be concerned with the pipe cracking at the trunk if any loads were applied but I guess that could only happen if someone stepped on it or if the stainless pipe got compressed enough to transmit loads through the hose which seems unlikely.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Thru Hull
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2021 10:43 
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Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 154
I scuffed up the inside of the pipe and epoxied in a sleeve of UHMW plastic that runs the entire length of the g10 tube. This should provide a very low friction surface for the line. It has a flange that exits the. Centerboard thru hull in the trunk so the line doesn't hit any sharp edges. I had the UHMW sleeve turned at a local machine shop from a 1 inch rod of UHMW. This was all sanded very smooth.

I think you would be hard pressed to crack the pipe. The walls are 1/8 inch thick and the length is only maybe 3 or 4 inches. This is held in by glass on both sides along with thickened epoxy. It was very rigid and the thru hull is in a place that is difficult to access, so unlikely to get hit.


 
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