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 Post subject: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 20 May 2013 18:50 
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Joined: 10 Dec 2006 15:14
Posts: 213
Location: London, Ontario
Has anyone removed the heat exchanger without virtually taking the engine apart?

I have a broken zinc (it is broken from the brass plug and on the inside) in my Heat Exchanger and I am thinking removal is the only solution. sad Any great ideas on getting it out? Zincs seem too soft for a screw extractor.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 21 May 2013 06:13 
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Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
Which engine do you have? On my W-40, there are two hose clamps that hold the body of the exchanger to the engine and then you have the hoses that you need to remove, but it's a very easy operation.

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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 21 May 2013 08:47 
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Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
If you have a W50, most have a rubber end cap that you can remove to get inside the raw water HX. It's held on by a large hose clamp. Be very careful when re-installing that end cap. It has a groove on the inner side that must be perfectly aligned with the flow divider plate inside. If not aligned correctly, you'll get raw water bypassing the tubes which can significantly reduce the cooling capacity. It's so hard to do that I don't try it.

Anyway, if you do need to or want to remove the HX, you need to remove the exhaust manifold with the HX attached. No way around it. I've done it about 4 times and it's not too bad if you know what to do. I just did it this last winter and this is what I recall:

1. On my boat, the supply and return hoses to the water heater are in the way, so I need to remove these from the engine, and pull them aft out of the way. You will drain the antifreeze from the engine when you do this.

2. Next, remove all hoses from the exhaust manifold/mixing elbow and the HX. This process will also drain the antifreeze from the engine. There are 3 hoses for the HX: fresh water (anti freeze side) to the HX, raw water supply from raw water pump and a raw water hose from the HX connected to the oil cooler. I find it easier to remove the hose from the oil cooler and leave the hose stub attached to the HX --- makes it easier to reinstall due to clearances and interferences. On my boat there are 2 hoses connected to the exhaust manifold/mixing elbow assembly: 1 raw water supply to the mixing elbow from the oil cooler, and the large exhaust connection to the water lift muffler. I can't remove the large exhaust hose yet, without removing the manifold assembly, but you can loosen the hose clamps in preparation.

3. There are 6 fasteners that attach the exhaust manifold to the head. There are 2 bolts ( 1 on the forward side, and 1 on the aft side). Remove both bolts. I believe they need a 7/16" wrench. Use the box end to break them free, and the open end/box end to remove them. There also are 4 threaded studs all located on the inner sections. These have 1 nut and washer each. Again, use the box end to break them free, and the open end/box end to fully remove them.

4. Once all fasteners are fully removed (2 bolts, and 4 nuts/washers), lift out the exhaust manifold/HX assembly (slightly upward and outward). It's tight, and you'll probably have to flex it at the exhaust line to break that connection, but it's very doable. The full assembly probably weighs about 30 lb.


Reassembly is done in the reverse except:

1. I've found that it's much easier if you put the 4 nuts with washers in their studs first. The exhaust manifold flange is slotted so that the manifold will slide onto these studs. There's very little clearance since you have to angle the manifold outboard port slightly to get by a ridge on the head. Engage the threads only about 1/2 to 1 thread, and hold the washers in place with some grease. Once you get the manifold on the studs, tighten the nuts just enough so they won't accidentally fall off. Now make sure the manifold is fully lowered so that studs rest on the top of the manifold flange groove. On my boat I need to whack it a few time with a rubber mallet to get the assembly full inserted into the exhaust hose. Don't fully tighten these nuts yet.

2. Now, try to install the fore and aft bolts. If the manifold is fully lowered on the studs, they should go right in. On the aft bolt, where's there's not a lot of room; I had to push/hold the bolt in place with a large flat screw driver, while turning it with the wrench.

3. Once you have all 6 fasteners installed, fully tighten all of them.

4. Reinstall the all hoses, and refill the engine with antifreeze.

It's not too bad if you use this approach. It now takes me about 1/2 hour to get it off, and probably 45 minutes to get it back on. My first time, without knowing this process it took me at least 4 times as long, learning on the way.

Good luck.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 22 May 2013 19:33 
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Skipper

Joined: 10 Dec 2006 15:14
Posts: 213
Location: London, Ontario
Thanks Jim

I have the W50

I will give this a try this Friday and report back. My zinc broke off in the HX and from the bolt so there is a short piece lodged in the hole. Hopefully I can get it out but if not I have a spare HX.

Thanks again
Stephen


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 30 May 2013 08:08 
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Joined: 10 Dec 2006 15:14
Posts: 213
Location: London, Ontario
Well I got it off with very little trouble. When I got to the heat exchanger I discovered the hole for the Zinc was full of zinc and oxidization. Using a centre punch I removed most of it and I carefully drilled most of it out. The zincs use a 18 thread brass plug and I had to acquire a 18 thread Tap but eventually I was able to repair the Heat Exchanger. While I did all this I replaced all the hoses in the cooling system hoses. Upon the recommendation of a mechanic friend I used Flex Hoses from DAYCO for the three large hoses - a 81061 (20 in) and a 81041 (14.75 in) to go to the water heater (via a reducing mixer/bypass) and a 81031 (11 in but cut down slightly) for the short hose from the Thermostat to the Heat Exchanger. (This is a 1981 W50)

I ended up taking out my transmission, starter, alternator, Heat exchanger, exhaust manifold, Air intake and all my hoses. I have never done more than change the oil so this was a very big project and risk is I screwed up. Well yesterday I got everything back together and replaced all the fluids. The big moment came. I put a big bucket of water on the intake for the water pump and turned the key. Started first time in only 2 seconds. Water out the exhaust and everything. No leaks in the bilge. The engine was my last (major) frontier on the repair skills list. My wife had the phone number for a diesel mechanic on hand but tore up business card at the sound of the engine. Onwards to self sufficiency

Now for a well deserved BEER Mmm Beer

Thanks for the helpful instructions


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 30 May 2013 08:44 
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Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
Congratulations!

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 01 Jun 2013 09:57 
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Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I second my congrats. I think everyone going any distance should disassemble those things and replace the fresh and raw pumps. Doing this when you have the time and tools helps when something happens when you are on a cruise and away from things.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removing the Heat Exchanger
PostPosted: 27 Oct 2013 14:45 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
I've been meaning to write a comment about this ever since I removed my HX. W50

Now that I've done it once it's very easy to do... (Be sure you have new manifold and HX gaskets before you start)

1. disconnect the hoses; including the exhaust hose. I removed the exhaust mounting bolts so I could just lay it aside and it would be out of the way.
2. Loosen,,,, don't remove the manifold mounting bolts (middle four). You'll need to loosen a lot so there's a lot of room to play with. If my memory serves. I do think end bolts, one on each end, need to come off completely.
3. LIFT UP on the manifold/HX assembly; it should lift right off the bolts
note: You'll need someone on the port side of the engine lifting the assembly off the engine and someone on the starboard side of the engine to take the assembly once you have it off so it can be lifted out the deck opening. I did it alone and nearly broke my back squeezing out of the port engine access area.
5. Once you have the assembly out of the boat unscrew the bolts that hold on the HX and there it is.

Reversing the process takes less than 45 minutes depending on how fast you can tighten hose clamps.


 
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