Injection Pump Fix - Replacement

WayneH · **Posted:** 23 Oct 2011 17:43

While trying to remove the nut holding the throttle cable connection, the throttle shaft sheared at the last set of threads. I handed the nut with the tip end of the throttle shaft in it to my wife and told her "That's what a $1000 nut looks like." Ended up pulling the entire injection pump off to take to the mechanic's place. It's real easy to remove once you've disconnected the fuel supply and return AND removed the oil filter. Rolling Eyes

Anyway, I saved myself a trip fee and $75 to remove it. We'll talk to the mechanic to see if I can save myself a trip fee to install it. Not feeling particularly lucky about the install right now.

But that's for next week. So today is Boat Drinks

cuz we can't get out of the slip right now.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 08 Nov 2011 14:42

I'm (pardon the pun) in the same boat. Ours went from a bit of fuel in the sump last season (Thought it was maybe a loose fuel filter) to visible dripping from the injection pump this year. I've sucked out at least a gallon over the season. Getting estimates now for the yard to remove, send for rebuild, and replace. I'd rather not bust the knuckles or the W50 if I can avoid it. The reinstall scares me a bit with the timing but with the old salts on board here to tap for wisdom... maybe I can give it a go.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I did it and I am no mechanical genius. I do not recall that it was all that hard or tricky. You have to get the alternator out of the way (obviously). Timing was not a big deal either as I recall. Hardest thing was getting the air out after reinstalling it.

Ray

WayneH · **Posted:** 09 Nov 2011 09:01

My boat has a hatch cut into the engine room from under the galley sink so I didn't have to remove my alternator to install the pump. It also helps that I'm skinny. Didn't have to remove the door under the galley sink.

Priming the pump can be difficult if you're not following directions. Embarassed

The admiral and I worked on it for about 90 minutes and I couldn't get prime. Thoroughly frustrated, I was about to call in the mechanics. The admiral says "Start from the beginning. Do you have fuel?" Exclamation

That's when I remembered having her cut off the main valve at the tank because diesel was pouring out of the fuel lines during disassembly. It's amazing how much faster things go when you have FUEL moving out of the tank.

Got her primed, started and the engine is belching white smoke but running. Shut it down and rotated the injection pump a couple of degrees counterclockwise when looking towards the rear of the engine and it's hard to start and still smoking. Had a scare with a family member and we had to leave the boat before I could try rotating the pump clockwise. Hopefully, I can get to it this weekend.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 10 Nov 2011 07:30

I'm sure CCW will have you running smoothly.

We have that side hatch too, but sadly I'm not skinny or small. For removal, did you have to approach from the STBD locker or from the engine access. Looking at it from the cabin it seemed like everything was on the other side. (facing aft) But I guess that once the alternator is out of the way you can approach from above.

The other fun part for me is that High Flight is already on the cradle. So after rebuild and replacement, I'll have to wait around until Spring to know how it went! (I'd consider running the W50 in the cradle with a hose on the intake, but the batteries are in my garage already.) I'm starting to think I'll just put her in early and do it from the slip in the Spring.

WayneH · **Posted:** 01 Dec 2011 16:35

Been a while but I got her running smooth the next time I went down to the boat but it was still belching white smoke. The guys that I had work on the boat earlier came out today to look at the engine and pronounced it healthy but needing to be run a bit harder until she gets up to operating temperature. This is supposed to flush out the unburnt fuel in the exhaust manifold and muffler. So we ran the engine in gear at the dock for a while and then decided to take her out and run her harder.

The exhaust clears up completely when running a measly 1500 rpm at temperature. YAY!!!!

Get back to the dock and tie her up and she's smoking again. Not badly but a little. I think (As if I knew anything) the pump advance is not working 100% right. But what the hey, the engine runs. The mechanic is satisfied. And he even said "no charge." Shocked

That's because he knows we are bringing her by later for a bottom job, I'll bet.

So the admiral and I intend to get some sailing in before they close the guillotine gate next month for 30 days.

Shameless plug: Tempest Marine Services, Oyster Creek, TX.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 16 Dec 2011 13:55

Congrats. I hope I'm so lucky in the Spring. Wish I got it out before the cold hit, but I just closed on a new place with a dedicated garage for boat things! Priorities.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 22 Apr 2012 16:57

So I've started the extraction. Alternator is out and I've disconnected all but fuel and cutoff cable from the pump. Still don't see any timing lines, but I'm hoping that will become apparent when I go for the mounting bolts. But I'll score my own line to make sure.

Were you guys maybe talking about the thing on top with a screw at either end and a point in the middle? That's on the mounting plate, but I see nothing on the pump to line up with it.

Also has anyone run the W50 on the dry? I figure I can hook up the antifreeze jug we use for winterizing and stick the hose in the jug to keep it topped off for a test run on shore. Any other considerations besides raw water flow?

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

The timing marks will be on the internal gears. I do not recall this being difficult. I vaguely recall there is really only one way to put the gears together, but it was a long time ago.

I run my engine each season on the dry just as you describe. Bucket with a hose in it. Works fine.

Ray

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

The fuel injection pump has a very slight scribe mark on the top of its mounting flange. The injection pump should be rotated until its mark matches up with a mark on the engine side mounting flange. On my boat the pump is slightly advanced- rotated clockwise with about 1/8" to 1/16" offset. If there are no marks, it would be ok to make your own before you remove the pump.

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Injection Pump Fix - Replacement

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