Injection Pump Fix - Replacement

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 23 Apr 2012 10:08

Wow! Thanks for the quick replies. So I guess once I break out the Simple Green and get the sludge off the mount, I'll see the scribe mark. If not, I'll make my own.
Plus she was smoking more and more in the past 4 years so there's a chance I'll need to tweak it anyway, though the rebuild of the pump should take some of that away if not all.

I'm getting detailed photos for a tutorial for the next Westerbeke Warrior that takes this on. Beyond seasonal maintenance, this is the first time I've disassembled the old girl. So the pics will serve as a reassembly guide. Otherwise I'm sure I'd have some headscratching with the simplest things like rewiring the alternator.

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jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

Just a thought if your engine is smoking. My W50 was smoking more than usual at the end of last season. I pulled out the injectors and had them rebuilt - probably the first time in 30 years. The technician who rebuilt them told me all were sticking. It cost about $300 for the rebuild, which included new spray nozzles for each. Haven't run the engine under load yet this season, but it doesn't smoke at all while idling. You may want to have yours rebuilt at the same time you're getting the injection pump rebuilt.

Jim
#191

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 25 Apr 2012 00:32

If the same shop can do that, I may yank them out. Our W50 has low hours, but it is over 30 years. And the white smoke has been building over the past 4-5 seasons.
I'm finding a lot of "while I'm in there" projects. Thinking about that electric fuel pump upgrade for bleeding as well.

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

A PO of my boat installed an electric fuel pump for bleeding the system. Works great, and also came in handy when my mechanical fuel pump failed when I was out for a week's cruise. A word of caution, however. The PO installed the pump upstream of the Raycor filter, which is great for filling the Raycor, but at that location it becomes a prefilter. I installed a bypass around the electric pump, which I keep open when the electric pump is not in use.

Jim

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I have rigged the electric pump in front of the Racor (with some plumbing to avoid the pump when it is not in use). I used a stock "diesel fuel transfer pump" I bought at an autoparts store for about $50. Really makes changing the Racor a lot easier as you can fill it by flipping a switch. I have had this arrangment for a decade or so and seems to work. I am not sure if the electric pump would replace the mechanical fuel pump if it failed as I have never had that happen.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 26 Apr 2012 20:05

Questions for you pioneers with the electric fuel pumps.
1. Once installed, is the bleeding process down to turn on the pump and crank the engine? Or so you still have to bleed the air out anywhere?
2. Since it's prior to the Racor it's on a non-pressure segment of the fuel system. So any copper plumbing will do, right? Simple pressure fittings like a water system are fine? I haven't cracked the fuel system yet so I'm not even sure what fittings are on that Racor yet. But as long as it doesn't suck in air, it should be fine. That would bring the project down to 2 T's and 2 cutoff valves to isolate the leg you're using at the moment. (pump or no-pump)

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

1. You will still need to bleed the fuel system the same way. However, with the electric pump you simply turn it on, which will pressurize the system, and vent the same high points as before. No need to manually operate the mechanical fuel, making it a one person operation.

2. The discharge pressure of the electric fuel pump system is quite low. I think it's about 5 psi. Standard rubber fuel hose with hose clamps will be fine. I did not make a conventional bypass system because I didn't have much space. I simply put a tee in at the electric pump suction and another at the discharge for the bypass line and placed a quick close (1/4 trurn) valve in the bypass. When operating without the electric pump I open the bypass valve. When using it, I close the bypass line valve.

If I recall, the fittings for the Raycor are somewhat odd. I now have barbed connections with rubber lines using hose clamps. You're right. When not using the electric fuel pump, you will have a slight negative pressure so your connections need to be good.

WayneH · **Posted:** 28 Apr 2012 18:46

Update, I never could get the white smoke to disappear after adjusting the injection pump. Met some friends and they suggested another friend might be able to help. Well, Sonny came by and listened to my tale of woe and said he could fix it.

And 20 minutes later, he had the pump timing adjusted so that the engine runs really smoooooooth and the excess diesel is no longer getting dumped out the exhaust pipe. YAY!!!

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 29 Apr 2012 12:56

So I guess it's just a really fine touch. I can imagine it's a bit tough to get that thing loose and rotated and torqued down again, especially when the alternator is in. That inboard nut between the pump and the engine block will require some crazy combo of tools to get 18 ft.lbs torqued.

In any case, it's nice to know that it can be done with just the pump twist. No secret handshakes... just trial and error.

Did you notice if he ran it with it somewhat loose and tweaked it until he was happy, then torqued it down? Or was it adjust, run, adjust, run, lather-rinse-repeat?

WayneH · **Posted:** 29 Apr 2012 21:22

Adjust, Tighten, run, adjust, tighten, run. Rinse, lather, repeat. My mechanic's extension had a swivel on the end. I'm going to get me one. He loosened the connections on the injectors before the last adjustment to get enough play to twist the pump. Then he torqued all the connections and ran the engine to make sure nothing was leaking. Beautiful. This morning I did not preheat the glow plugs and she started right up. Had some white smoke that is supposedly normal for cold engines. I didn't run the engine up to normal temperature because I suddenly realized that some IDIOT forgot to open the seacock and I shut down the engine. But with the ease that it started today, I'm happy.

Oh, if you have lost a brass washer on the original fuel filter, try a 3/8" aluminum ring electrical connector for a substitute. The one with the yellow insulator. That's what he uses on his cranes that he repairs and he can't find the right part. The aluminum crushes just like the brass does.

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Injection Pump Fix - Replacement

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