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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 01 May 2012 14:12 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
Still not looking forward to the reassembly and first start... but with your tips I'm dreading it less!

Cheers! Cheers

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 14 May 2012 02:01 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
$904 for rebuild of pump and 4 injectors. I was shocked that they put it through paint and restamped a plate for it and everything. It looks new. Now I just need the time to put it all back together and make a start to finish tutorial. (lots of pics to come.)

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 22 May 2012 21:11 
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Skipper

Joined: 13 Feb 2011 21:19
Posts: 337
Location: Canyon Lake, TX
Well, I've spent the last ten days moving from Freeport, TX to New Orleans, LA on our way to Pensacola, FL for a week with friends before returning to Freeport. I've finally got the correct white smoke coming from my exhaust. Cool, humid mornings exasperate the steam production but it wears off as the day heats up. It's sure nice to have it running like it's SUPPOSED to. After 30 minutes, the oil pressure and water temperature gauges are rock steady. The water temperature varies about 5 degrees between idle and full out. The hour meter is still broke so we are keeping track using an Excel spreadsheet of start and stop times with a calculation for how much fuel we've burned since last fill up. The engine runs about 1400 rpm for us at 0.5 gph.

The last time I got fuel, I told the guy I needed about 18 gallons but I had forgotten to record that day's run. So when he said 26 gallons, I got nervous until I recorded the engine times which calculated out to 25.96 gallons required. Very Happy

Anyway, headed to P-Cola to sail in waters where you can see the bottom at greater than 4 inches. Having a blast but really ready to get out of the GICW. I think the admiral is convinced to sail the GOM on the way home.

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Wayne
Master and Commander of the Sailing Vessel Impetuous
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
Subservient to no man except SWMBO
Any day without dock lines is a GOOD day!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 24 May 2012 12:30 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
I'm all assembled and ready to follow in your footsteps (hopefully). I did end up with two extra washers... it's always something. If anyone is near their engine, check the alternator main bolt for me if it's handy. From fore to aft, I have bolt head, washer, front bracket, alternator, washer (as a spacer to fill the gap), back bracket, washer, lock washer, and nut. Yet I still have two washers big enough for that bolt. No way they fit with the slide side of the alternator. I'm not too worried though. I'm sure they'll end up in the drawer with all the other spares from projects past.

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 27 May 2012 20:04 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
Anyone recall what the injectors have in the way of washers? I didn't take pics of mine when they came out, and I'm thinking the shop may have given me something that is preventing compression. I replace heat shields after the fact, so maybe I need new washers? Either way, all signs point to bad compression and that could only happen with all 4 cyls. if it were related to the injector install.

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 28 May 2012 14:49 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
Each injector has a copper washer. If a recall, the ID of the washer matches the OD of the spray nozzle and the OD of the washer matches the hole. They are special sized which should be provided by the shop that rebuilt your injectors.

Jim

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Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 01 Jun 2012 17:41 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
That's true Jim. I verified that the shop did an exact replacement with what came out of there. I also found the picture in the manual showing the "sealing washers" and the proper setup.

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1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2013 11:59 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
OK, the dirty deed is done.

I'll step through replacing my injection pump..... This is just my experience,,,, others may have a better approach.

IMPORTANT - I would recommend not starting this process unless you have an electric fuel pump on the low pressure side of your engine; Used for bleeding purposes. ALSO, have a strong battery charger to keep your starting battery/s up during the bleeding process.

1. I found a rebuilt injection pump; much cheaper than having mine rebuilt. Mine was leaking from the shut off toggle switch.
2. This is a two man job so I would advise you find someone to help you. It would be nice if one of you has a small body frame that can fit AND work under the sink.
3. Remove the oil filter.
4. Remove the alternator.
5. Use some kind of cleaner to clean all around the injector pump mount.
6. Use something to score along where the pump is mounted to the timing chain cover. Try to mark EXACTLY where at least two of the mounting ears are. OR..... lock the pump gear in place. Along the bottom of the base (hard to see when mounted) there is a small hole in the mounting base, about 1/8''. Inset in that hole is a screw. Remove the screw and insert something like a 1/8" drill bit and tape it up so it won't drop out. This will lock the pump gear in place. This would be useful if you were going to have the pump rebuilt.
7. Disconnect all the fittings. We only removed one pair of the injector lines at both ends for easier access but I think it would have been better to remove all of the lines. It would have made getting the pump back in faster.
8. Once the lines are removed it's a simple thing to loosen the three nuts holding the pump in place. YOU WILL NEED a jointed rachet with an extension to remove the inside nut.
9. The pump gear stem is threaded. One place on it is wide which purpose is to act as a key. Therefore there is only one way to put the pump back in to the timing chain hole.
10. You'll need either a new gasket, make your own or use gasket in a tube before replacing the pump. This pump has no shims but I doubt you'll be able to remove the pump without tearing up the gasket.
11. Clean the mounting surface and with the new gasket, mount the pump, reinstall the oil filter, mount the alternator.
12. Align the pump with the score marks that you have made. If you locked the gears in place using a locking pin, simply remount the pump tighten the screws and remove the pin (don't forget to replace the screw in the little locking pin hole).
13. Reattach any/all injector lines.
14. BLEED THE LINES. Here's where an electric pump REALLY COMES IN HANDY. Start with the instructions in the Westerbeke engine manual. You'll see an additional step in those instructions when replacing the pump. You'll need to fill the pump up.... those instructions are there in the manual. We bled everything from the fuel filter to the injectors,,,, in that direction. It's trial and error after that. I opened up all of the injector ends many times, using the electric pump to bleed AND also firing up the engine to bleed. If your starter battery gets low. FORGET IT, leave the charger on the battery, go home, have a beer and get a good night's sleep. The next morning start bleeding only the injector heads again then try starting it up with a fully charged battery. Most likely it will begin to hit on one or more cylinders then "cheers" it'll start.
15. If you're lucky like me, it will run great provided it went back into the exact same place. IF not you'll need to adjust the pump.
This is done by loosening the 3 mounting screws and turning the pump slightly clockwise. The pump is not going to want to move by the way. It can be adjusted by locking vice grips on the opposite end of the pump so the pump could be torqued clockwise,,,, actually pretty easy. While one person does that have a second person screw in the TOP mounting screw (tight). This should keep it from moving while tightening the others. With luck, you'll won't need to adjust, even then, adjusting once should do the trick.
16. THE FINAL step.... check for leaks. I doubt you'll be able to get all the lines back without a slight leak somewhere.

17. Have a beer, take the wife out to dinner, throw a party, you're done !!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2013 20:19 
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Skipper

Joined: 13 Feb 2011 21:19
Posts: 337
Location: Canyon Lake, TX
Dang, didn't need my help at all. Cheers

Sounds like your change out went smooth. Congrats.

_________________
Wayne
Master and Commander of the Sailing Vessel Impetuous
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
Subservient to no man except SWMBO
Any day without dock lines is a GOOD day!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Injection Pump Fix - Replacement
PostPosted: 02 Mar 2013 19:46 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
Great information. Thanks.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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