Rear oil seal leak

PaulR · **Joined:** 18 Nov 2006 11:35 **Posts:** 18

Well I finally did it, I replaced the rear oil seal on my Perkins 4-108 (while in the boat) that was leaking with a new one from Foley that they say "will not leak", well will see.
It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It took me a total of about 20 hours.
The hardest part was all the positions you have to get your body in to get all the bolts out. I will let you know how this works out I am scheduled to be launched April 19.

Paul
Let It Be #19
Port Clinton, Oh.

NewDay#16 · **Joined:** 12 Oct 2007 11:01 **Posts:** 35

Paul,

Did you take any photos, have references to the procedure? We low-numbered-hull T37 owners may need to know someday soon.

John Harvey
New Day T37 #16

NAM · **Joined:** 22 Jun 2008 10:54 **Posts:** 85

I'll second that. After 2 years of cruising I can't tell you how much oil I've sopped up from the engine pan! I expect you had to remove the tranny and the bell housing. Did Foley give you directions as to how to do this or did he throw you to the wolves? If not this would be a good topic to write up for the Tech section.
Confused

Neal Musto
T37
Abraxas

PaulR · **Joined:** 18 Nov 2006 11:35 **Posts:** 18

Sorry I haven't responded I was on vacation and now I am trying to get the boat ready to go in.
I never thought to take pictures until I was almost done.
Here is how I accomplished the seal change.
(You should have a parts breakdown before you start to know what you are getting in to).
1. Made a bracket out of unistrut to lift the back of the engine (It looked like an upside down U with squared off corners.
2. Place this over the rear engine lifting ring with a cable runnung to the front lifting ring to keep the rig from falling backward. One leg sat in the port locker in back of the batteries the other sat on the top of the fiberglass pan in front of the rear motor mount.
3. Put a turnbuckle between the lifting ring and the unistrut.
4. Unbolt the coupling from the shaft to the transmission.
5. Unbolt the transmission and remove.
6. Put tension on the turnbuckle, now unbolt the rear motor mount brackets from the block and the motor mount. (do not unbolt the actual motor mount from the pan and you won't have to worry about alignment when you put it back together.
7. Loosen the screws holding the exhaust muffler to it's bracket.
8. Raise the motor with the turn buckle.
9. Unbolt the bell housing from the motor and remove, this includes the starter motor. (There are aligning pins that hold it in place you will have to us rubber mallet and pry bars to get it off).
10. Put a socket and breaker bar on the front bolt on the crankshaft to keep the mortor from turning.
11. Unbolt and remove the gear.
12. Unbolt the damper.
13. Unbolt and remove the flywheel (this is heavy be carful).
14. Unbolt the back plate from the block and remove. (There are alinging pins on this also).
15. Unbolt the seal housing and remove.

I bought the new seal from Foley and made the rest of the gaskets from sheet stock.

Clean and paint all parts that need it and reverse the procedure to put back together.

Paul
T37 #19
Let It Be
Port Clinton Oh.

NAM · **Joined:** 22 Jun 2008 10:54 **Posts:** 85

Great blow by blow. Do you still have the Bracket, if so can you take a picture of it. Did you have to raise the rear of the engine to get clearance to remove the bell housing?

PaulR · **Joined:** 18 Nov 2006 11:35 **Posts:** 18

Well so far no leaks hope it stays that way. No I do not have the the bracket any more to take pictures. Yes I did have to raise the engine to get the bellhousing off and also to remove the lower stater bolt. While I had it apart I cut out part of the pan so the lower starter bolt could be removed without raising the engine.

Paul
Let It Be #19
Port Clinton, Oh.

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

Does anyone have the oil seal no for the W50?

This number which is on the outside face of the seal would allow a purchse from any seal supplier. Westerbeke don't make them.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

The number should be on the Westerbeke 50 Parts list on Torresen's site even though they do not have the part (though they have had some old parts around and you might ask them on the phone--not just email). Failing that, you can take the old one to a competent (not the easiest thing to find these days) machinist and he can measure it and either get it or order it for you from a bearing supplier. I had to do this with a windlass I rebuilt.

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

Yes this is what I wanted to do, but before I took the old one out. So if anyone had a new one in a box and could take a photo, or copy the numbers printed on the outside face of the seal, I could order one.

It has just statred leaking, not much, but it is annoying and I like the pan under the engine to be clean....

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

http://picasaweb.google.com/117097751431185068600/OilSeal#5475058749344865778

6 hours to get it all apart. I think the leak is actually from the gasket behind the adapter plate in which the oil seal is pressed. I used a turnbuckle from the rear engine lifting point to a beam which the PO had glassed intop the cockpit floor.

More awkward than difficult. Especially the two bolts holding the plate which mounts the voltage regulator and the two relays - I may relocate that. I may also remove the oil pressure sender and the oil alarm sender to a remote location if I can find a hose. I would really like to rewire witha key instead of the fuel pressure switch but I am too busy.

Hope to finda seal at the bearing shop tomorrow.

The Oil seal no is : INA 40277

Tartan37.com

Rear oil seal leak

Who is online