Tutorial: Seawater Impeller Replacement (W50)

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 15 Aug 2007 16:51

I had to do this underway last week so I thought I'd write it out for anyone tackling it for the first time.

Tools:
- Small flat head screwdriver : Best to have a one with a screw holder for putting the screws back in.
- Marine grease of your choosing
- Replacement impellor (comes with gasket)

1. Clear out the quarter berth and pull hatch covers off of the space behind the nav station seat. (Some folks have added batteries back there, ours is pretty much a void.)

2. Easiest access is from a sitting position within that void. The s/w pump is about the furthest pully to port about midway up. Sitting in the compartment allows close in access to the back of it. This can be done with a mirror or in the blind but it's a bit tougher. I sit in the compartment facing the bow (the crew thought I looked like a kid in a go kart... just a head popping out)

3. Unscrew the 6 flat head screws in the back cover of the s/w pump. Remove cover. (Careful not to lose screws to the bilge. Magnetic driver should help.

4. Do some gently prying of the impeller with the small screwdriver. Switch locations and don't muscle it too much. 3 or 4 attempts and it should start sliding toward you enough to grip w/ your fingers. Shaft stays with the pump.

5. Clean out any rubber you find in the cavities of the pump and wipe down the whole area including the mating surface on the back panel. Remove any gasket material.

6. Grease up the shaft and the entire inner cavity. Less is not more. Most important is the outer ring where the impeller vanes will be rubbing. The back cover is also the rear bearing for the pump shaft. Clean it out and grease that up as well.

7. Slide the new impeller into place. It is keyed so line things up before bringing out the BFH. It's a tight fit and takes some effort to get it completely seated. When properly in, the impeller should be flush with the edges of the housing.

8. Put the gasket and rear cover over the shaft with a twist and line up the screw holes.

9. Now it's time for the screw-holding screwdriver. Getting those little screws in can be a pain and dropping them in the bilge would really prolong the repair. As with most gasketed fittings, you should torque them down in a crossing sequence. Sitting in the compartment I could see 4 of 6 screws. By laying completely on my back I could see the other two. It made things a bit easier.

Overall its a very simple repair but a bit tougher from the front working blind. Seeing it all makes life easier. Should take about 15-20 min. tops.

Feel free to correct/add to the tutorial and I'll adjust this post as needed.
If you've done a repair and thought "Wish I knew all that before I started...",
please write your own tutorial to help out the others.
If we get enough, we'll make it a separate category.

I'll snap some pics to add later.

redvette · **Joined:** 14 Dec 2006 22:13 **Posts:** 59

Thanks Skipper,
I did this a couple of years ago using the W-50 tech manual but I want to check the impeller again. I had 2 or 3 broken blades but fortunately all the broken pieces were recovered. The tutorial will help me visualize the method before starting into it again.

Mark

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 13 Dec 2007 18:42

Imagine how easy it would be if I actually took the pictures I promised. Embarassed

On the list for Spring.

Solare · **Posted:** 29 Jan 2008 22:20

After having pulled my impeller at our winter haul I came to the conclusion that with my eyes and bad back there was no way in hell I could perform this operation in a emergency situation, especially in a rough seaway. After some research I found and ordered a SepadSeal kit http://www.speedseal.com/speedseal.html to replace the the factory pump cover. I plan on putting it on in the next week or so, weather depending, and will try to remember to take a few photos.

Cheers, Cheers

Glenn R

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 31 Jan 2008 13:57

Can't wait to hear. If it works for you I'll certainly be ordering one. Thanks for blazing that trail.

Only thing that concerns me is that the shaft uses our cover for a bearing. It pokes out a 1/2" or so. The pics on that website show only flat covers that slide away from the pump. Not possible if the shaft is stuck into the cover. And if it's not... then it won't fit. But I'm hoping they address that.

Tartan

Solare · **Posted:** 31 Jan 2008 17:02

Our impeller cover is smooth on the inside, but SOLARE is equipped with the W33. It might be worth a call to the UK to see if they have a solution for the W50.

Falco · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2007 23:08 **Posts:** 42

Just a thought for some folks to ease the gymnastics needed to replace the impeller. If you remove the entire water pump from the FRONT of the motor, out in the salon, everything gets much easier. No screws to drop, easy access to all six screws (as opposed to nearly impossible access to two of them) and you have the pump in your hand where it is easy to pull off the impeller. Also, when you put on the new impeller, lube-up the inside so that in the future it will actually come off of the shaft. I now have an extra salt water pump with the impeller core still firmly attached despite having grasped the rubber parts as instructed by the manufacturer. The rubber separated from the core. I later found that the good folks that make the pump also sell an impeller puller (like a gear puller) that is designed for the task.

In any event, removing the entire water pump is only a matter of two bolts and a set screw for the belt pulley....a whole lot easier than clambering into the locker and contorting to reach six screws that are difficult to mess with even in the best of circumstances.

Tartan

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 28 Dec 2008 01:43

Hmmm... thought I posted pics, but maybe that was another thread.

This the W50 pump.

redvette · **Joined:** 14 Dec 2006 22:13 **Posts:** 59

I've replaced my impeller twice and really should check it every year. But I agree with removing the entire pump. Mine is attached by hose clamps. As stated, removing the 6 screws, replacing the impeller and cleaning out broken bits of blades, and replacing the screws is a lot easier on the counter over a paper towel.

One question, my parts manual and the first impeller I removed from the pump was a 6-blade impeller. The replacements were 12-blade as shown in the pics above. My concern is that the latter leads to smaller bits that can get thru the small exit port and end up in the heat exchanger, while the larger blades in the 6-blade impeller are more likely to get lodged inside the pump housing and removed. However... when I went to the local marine store they only had the 12-blade impeller. Any thoughts or other experiences with this?

T37sailor · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 16:10 **Posts:** 61

Mark,

I have a different pump on my W50. The pump is Jabsco 5320-0011 and uses the six bladed impeller 5616-0001. I just rebuilt the pump with new seals. It was easier than I anticipated. I think using dental tools to pull the old seals out was key.

Tartan37.com

Tutorial: Seawater Impeller Replacement (W50)

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