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 Post subject: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 23 Aug 2007 23:14 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 18:12
Posts: 325
A heads up for all (esp. W40 engines!)A few weeks ago I noticed later in the bilge on my T37C. I searched further and found that it was coming in from my stuffing box (which leaks very little normally because of the gore-tex stuffing) I tightened it to stop the leak. A few days and miles later the same thing happened. Because of the amount of drops and the suddeness of it I started wondering if I had an alignment problem that was putting pressure on the stuffing box (there is a federal flexible coupler between the box and transmission)I looked around the engine and found the head of a bolt in the area under the engine and found out it was from the "L" brackets that attaches to the engine. The other side of the "L" bracket holds the engine mount. There are 2 bolts in each front side brackets (3 bolts in the back)The other bolt in this port front bracket was also broke but had not fallen down. So the mount had moved and the engine was twisted a bit - eek! I ended up replacing all the engine mounts one at a time, the old broken bolts came out easier than expected and are actually tapped into the block above the hole pan (it seems to go through into the oil area!)I replaced all the grade 5 bolts with grade 8 to hopefully prevent this from happening again. What I "think" happened is all or some of the following. 1) The engine mount on the port from was caved down further than the others I think due to the rotation of the engine which may wear it out quicker (it had been adjusted by the PO to compensate but I think there was less give to it and that may make it bottom out easier. 2) The bottom nut (there is one above and below on each mount) that is on the opposite corner (starbord aft)had unwound about 1/2" which would cause flexing.
3) When I replaced one of the broken bolts I cound not get it tight as there was not sufficient room around the socket to put it in, so we had to grind the outside of the socket to within 1 millimeter - maybe it was never bar tight from the factory? 4) Metal fatigue, so I changed all the front ones - the back ones have 3 bolts from top to bottom and I thought it may be all right.
I also did an alignment after all this and it seems ok so far.
You may want to look it this area of your engine so you do not have to go through what I did - only lost one weekend though!

Richard
T37C #136
Salvation


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 24 Aug 2007 15:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
Thanks!!! Good thing to keep an eye on. Also on the W-40, keep a close eye on the oil-pressure sending unit that is located on the port side of the engine. This may rupture and spew oil all over. It is recommended that this sending unit be remotley located and attached to the engine via high pressure hosing with factory crimping on the fittings. Mine went up with only 1200 hrs on it!!!


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 06 Oct 2007 22:10 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 23 Jan 2007 19:04
Posts: 10
I have the Westerbeke 40 with 2500 hrs and believe that regardless of an outright breakage I need to replace the mounts. I've had her for 3 years and believe the mounts are at least 6 years old, and probably much older. After disconnecting the coupling and removing all 4 mount top nuts can the corners of the engine be lifted/jacked individually (one at a time) to slide out the old and insert the new mounts?

Eric
T37C #145
Cricket


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 07 Oct 2007 13:35 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 18:12
Posts: 325
Hi Eric, I just took the pressure off each corner with a jack (a friend had a small scissor jack from his Jetta, worked great) undid the bolts that hold it to the stringer, then the ones holding it to the engine and slid the mounts off. I then put the old brackets on to the new mounts (after measuring the height) and reversed the procedure. The alignment was not too far off with this method. I did not separate the coupling as you have until the alinment - its a good idea to separate first, I never thought off it though.


Richard


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 06 Nov 2007 20:33 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 23 Jan 2007 19:04
Posts: 10
Richard
Thanks for your note - very helpful.


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 26 Nov 2007 17:40 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 10 Nov 2006 22:56
Posts: 171
Location: Portland, Oregon
I needed to replace my shaft and shaft coupling, and also added a dripless seal and new cutlass bering, and so replaced my old (probably original) motor mounts at that time. I credit the new mounts with a big reduction in vibration (although all the other work and an alignment probably had a lot to do with that too. But the old mounts were definitely HARD AS ROCKS.

_________________
Jay and Muki Kerr
Tartan 37 Betty Lou (formerly Rainbow)
Hull # 118, fin keel
St. Helens, OR
Betty Lou's Blog


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2016 17:41 
Offline
Rail Meat

Joined: 26 Jan 2015 21:03
Posts: 6
I KNOW THIS IS AN OLD POST BUT I AM NEEDING TO REPACE MY MOUNTS FOR MY W40 AND LOOKING FOR INFO ON WHERE TO GET SOME.


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 03 Mar 2016 09:50 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 26 Jan 2015 21:03
Posts: 6
If anyone is interested I found some from Bushings inc. they are $48 each. I think this is a good price.


 
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 Post subject: Re: W40 engine mounts
PostPosted: 09 Apr 2016 17:30 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 01 Nov 2006 10:53
Posts: 35
From Good Old Boat Magazine deflate basket ball insert insert under engine and inflate to raise engine and not damage oil pan


 
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