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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 23 Sep 2012 19:45 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 10 Feb 2008 18:03
Posts: 48
I plan to add the electric pump for bleeding purposes. Can anybody share details of the pump they have installed for this?
Anybody install it without a bypass line?

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Jeff Barnes

#167 Tenacious
Port Clinton, OH


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2012 02:06 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
You'll need a bypass line for when it's not in use. You don't want your system pulling all its fuel through a pump that's not on.
I was considering this move until I found out that it only replaces the hand pump for the first few bleed points. You still have to crank to bleed the last of the fuel pump points and the injectors. The first 3 bleed points on the W50 are the quick easy ones so not worth it for me.

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 26 Sep 2012 10:03 
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Skipper

Joined: 13 Feb 2011 21:19
Posts: 337
Location: Canyon Lake, TX
My engine came to me with an electric fuel pump. The old lift pump had been removed and a plate installed over its opening. The original push button heat and start has been replaced with a key start. So the electric fuel pump comes on when the key is on and off when the key is off.

I would think that if you have the original push buttons, you will need a bypass around the electric pump. But how are you going to operate the pump to prime the injection pump unless you add another switch?

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Wayne
Master and Commander of the Sailing Vessel Impetuous
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
Subservient to no man except SWMBO
Any day without dock lines is a GOOD day!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 29 Sep 2012 09:45 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
My electric pump was purchased at an auto parts store. I think I paid less than $100 for it. I installed it between the tank and the racor. It has a separate power switch. When not powered on it is passive; diesel flows through it to the racor.... NO PROBLEM AT ALL. Since I single hand a lot, this is the best little addition on the motor. No need for anyone to sit topside and crank while I crack injectors. Now just turn the pump on, crack a few injections, then go top side and start. It's a breeze.

If pump ever disintegrates from the inside stopping the flow of diesel simply have a spare pump in your spare parts or a short piece of hose so you can bypass until a new one is purchased. The first one I had lasted for YEARS before it died.

Another big advantage is when you change racor filters. Simply put filter in and turn on the pump... it fills right up, then crack a few injectors and start her up. Can't get any easier.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 01 Oct 2012 11:57 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
^^^

Is that a W50? I was told that an electric pump would get the first three bleed points. You're saying you do the entire bleed with the electric and no cranking?
Specifically the last bleed point on the Injection pump and the injector nuts require cranking in the standard process. If the fuel flows and removes bubbles that far with a push from an electric, sign me up!

I rigged a remote starter to do it myself. Not bad but getting to the cutoff from the front of a running engine is less than ideal. I nearly broke a leg running topside with no steps to cut off the engine when she suddenly came to life. Still preferable to sticking my hand into the moving belts to get to the cutoff on the injection pump.

Postal

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1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 17 Nov 2013 14:44 
Offline
Midshipman

Joined: 15 Jan 2010 16:13
Posts: 54
I just installed an electric pump to ease with the bleeding process. I put it after the Racor filter; that is, between the Racor and the manual lift pump. Thus far it seems to work like a charm. I know that others apparently have installed the 12 volt pump prior to the Racor. For me, ease of access was much better hooking it up downstream of the Racor. And I figured that this way the electric pump would be less likely to get clogged. Have yet to put in a by pass line. Do you think it necessary?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 06 Nov 2014 15:03 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
BLEEDING MADE EASY

FIRST- If you don't have an electric pump BUY ONE. As indicated in the previous posts, the pump can be put in different locations. My pump is between the tank and the racor filter. I still have my lift pump. REASON- if the electric pump fails, you'll still need to be able to bleed the low pressure side with youR lift pump OR buy a 2nd electric pump for backup reasons.....

CHANGING THE RACOR FILTER:

If you do this right, more than likely you'll never need to bleed the low pressure side if you change the racor filter

1. change the filter
2. screw the top back on the racor filter canister but leave enough for diesel to escape when you turn on your electric pump. The compartment will fill up and start to run down the outside of the canister when this happens screw down the top. This should have evacuated any air left in the canister. Turn off the electric pump.
3. start the engine..... it should start without bleeding
4. If the engine does not start.... before jumping into the next bleeding procedure, simply crack the top screw on the LAST injector and start your electric pump. This should clear any air formed when you changed the racor filter.
5. This procedure should work more than 90% of the time... if not then...... go to the next bleeding procedure.

2ND BLEEDING PROCEDURE (STEP ONE): (LOW PRESSURE SIDE)

1. Follow the steps in the PDF document attached to this post. Substitute "pumping with the lift pump" with turning on your electric pump. Points A, B, C can all be bled by one person with the ELECTRIC PUMP.
2. Try to start the engine

2ND BLEEDING PROCEDURE (STEP TWO): (HIGH PRESSURE SIDE) you'll probably need to do this if you change your primary fuel filter.

1. Unscrew all high pressure lines (D on diagram). Hit your starter button and turn the engine over MANY times.
2. Tighten the lines (D).
3. Hit your starter button and turn your engine over until it starts. The engine may only hit on one injection but if you have a good charge on your battery, eventually it will hit on all four injections.


Attachments:
File comment: BLEEDING PROCEDURE
BleedingProcedure.pdf [55.81 KB]
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 07 Nov 2014 05:30 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
I agree with the procedure above. I would only add that I fully remove the 4 high pressure injection connections at each injector. I then place a paper towel sheet under each and crank the engine until I see fuel injected on each sheet. After that, reconnect the high pressure lines and you're ready to go. Be patient. It takes a lot of cranking to refill these high pressure lines.

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Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 07 Nov 2014 07:05 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
Jim, maybe I was unclear..... the last step in my instructions was to unscrew all of the high pressure lines from the injectors and turn over the engine, just as you mention. I also use a piece of paper to indicate that fuel has sprayed out of each line when turning over the engine.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding the deisel...
PostPosted: 16 Nov 2014 06:50 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
For a primary filter change, I get a start by point C. (or the W50 equivalent) About 10% of the time I'll need to crack injector nuts one at a time and wait for bubbles to minimize and by #3, she fires.

When you pull the filter, nothing has broken between the pump and the injectors. Those lines are still full. The return line from the injectors has possibly emptied depending on how much you knock the line around while getting the filter in place.

Now for every other job that spills the fuel lines or empties the injector lines, agreed... it takes forever to fill the HP side. It would be nice to be able to fill those with an electric.

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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