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 Post subject: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 18 Jul 2021 09:49 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
The only way I can figure to replace the engine mounts is skid the engine out and hang it in the companionway OR using the shortest, lowest profile (against the deep sump oil pan very carefully) scissor jack. I got it done, but what a monster. Scared to death of damaging the oil pan or the jack kicking while my arm was under there. Trapped like muskrat. Used a 5/8" floor/knee pad material on top of a block. Just barely got under the bell housing to lift the back, and then just with the foam pad. Then go to start dry aligning the engine and realize the new coupling I bought (Buck Algonquin) has the set screw holes 90 degrees to each other and the old coupling was at 180 degrees. I don't really want 4 set screw dimple holes around the shaft. Back to the old coupling, clean, clean, derust, light very fine sanding of the face (like 2000 grit, lightly) prime and paint the exterior and get back at lining things up. Always something in the way.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 18 Jul 2021 15:28 
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Skipper

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 235
When I did mine, I lifted the front of the engine in place, took out the old and put in the new. Then I lifted the back of the engine in place (I forget exactly how but maybe used a 2x4 as a lever) and replace the rear. It was pretty simple. It was also a fairly long time ago!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2021 12:23 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
It wasn't overly difficult to get it all done, but I didn't see any good way to lever the aft end of the engine up to deal with those mounts. Trick is to not lose the engine sliding back. Front was straightforward, adjust the comealong from engine to mast occasionally (to keep everything from sliding back). But getting the aft end of the engine up sufficiently really had to be done from forward. It worked, but unnerving a couple of times when creaks interrupted the jacking.

Time to do a rough line up, reinstall the prop & sharks & zincs and start re-assembling the block. Had a GREAT diesel red Moeller paint I got from Hamilton Marine, then it disappeared, so we're going closer to the Westerbeke color with this other red they had.

I am going to pull the pulley on the freshwater pump and take that apart. I'll do it on my "spare" W50 first for practice and salvage that FW pump for the parts box. Does that pulley NEED to be pressed back on, or will a rubber maul do the job?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2021 12:34 
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Skipper

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 235
Probably pressed on but why? I think you can get that pump for $30.00 from J.C. Whitney or the like. I think it is the same pump that goes on an MGB (though I forget what year; sometime in the 70s, I think). Do you care if it is blue instead of red!?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2021 14:16 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Just to replace the gasket, clean it all up, look at what I'm dealing with so when I have to do it in a jungle estuary or a mangrove lagoon I can do it quickly.

$140.95 at Northwoods Tractor if that's the same pump. Not sure, though, without asking. The reference is only to the BMC 1.5. Less $ through outlets in Great Britain and even less if you know which MG pump you want. But looking at that one I may be able to get it off without pulling the pulley off. It's dark in there, and my mind has been on other things.

Not sure what year MG . . . pumps look a little different from late '60's to 71, then change 72 on. I need one in my hand, and just happen to have a sacrificial BMC 1.8 to play with.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2021 17:06 
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Skipper

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 235
Sorry, the pulley shouldnít need to be pressed on. I was thinking about the impeller. I donít even recall violent coaxing (rubber mallet) to get the pulley on.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2021 17:06 
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Skipper

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 235
Sorry, the pulley shouldnít need to be pressed on. I was thinking about the impeller. I donít even recall violent coaxing (rubber mallet) to get the pulley on.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2021 18:19 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I think earlier today I realized the pulley is bolted-to and not pressed on by looking at the pump on a Brit boat site and on the Northwoods Tractor site. Northwoods and the Brit site (can't remember the name) both have the right FW pump without extra bolt holes that need to be ground off. The Brit one was $90 US and the NW Tractor $149 US. Both are specifically for the BMC 1.8. Much of the MG stuff looks a little different.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 26 Jul 2021 14:59 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Cynthia at Northwoods is getting me a couple of gaskets for the freshwater pump and that rounds out the gasket needs to put this thing back together. And a couple of 024690 (Westerbeke part number; or 199034 if you look at ASAP Supplies) 54 mm thermostats with bypass.

Now if I can get all the parts back on and figure out where all these wires go.

Got the engine coupling/shaft almost lined up. The replacement motor mounts ate up too much thread aft, so I cut a couple pieces of 3/8" G-10 and slotted it to go under the mounts. I'm on the hard, so this lineup is very preliminary. But we're getting there.

Based on where the old mounts sat . . . the shaft must not have been centered in the log. I centered it first and worked from there. I can't figure out what the issue was, but it appears rectified down to some fine tuning to get below 0.004" Then do it all over again after it sets in the water for a day or so. Oh, and crappy installation at the factor to begin with. Slap dash engine install, drill holes in the beds, drop the Westerbeke in and call it a day. The single holes for the mounts in the beds really aren't centered well. Looks a lot better now.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 29 Jul 2021 09:49 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 136
Was this a W50 mount replacement?

What indications did you have that the mounts needed to be replaced? I see mine are getting a bit worn but I don't see any physical evidence that they need to be replaced when the engine is running.

Also, how do you plan to align the shaft? Do you make adjustments to get the coupling faces to perfectly align?

On the wires, as you know I rewired my engine so I have a pretty good knowledge of how it's done. I think I posted pics.


 
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