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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 29 Jul 2021 13:45 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Yes, w50 mount replacement. The original mounts looked O.K., but I got new ones anyway. They're 42 years old and mounts are cheap. I had to add 3/8" to the back mounts (G-10 plates notched out to slide up in around both bolts). I'm not 100% sure why. Got the tops of the couplings to line up, levered the engine back and forth until I was happy with rough lateral alignment, down to tweaking the mounts to get under 0.004 feeler gauge. Then clamp it down and it gets all screwed up going into the water, start all over again after she settles out for a few days.

Oh, and yes, where do all these wires go? $1100 to rebuild the injection pump and injectors. I ain't giving up on this engine. Was looking at torque requirements at 5:30 this morning. Everything requires specific torquing. Even the injection pump nuts. How the HELL do you torque that inside bolt on the injector pump?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 30 Jul 2021 08:05 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I should have mentioned (I guess I did) I think the original engine install was less than perfect. Mount holes weren't center, etc. The mounts were somewhat stressed laterally. Tweaked looking mounts, but rubber still good. I start an alignment with making certain the shaft is centered as closely as possible in the shaft log. I think the shaft may have been low in the log when I first took it apart, which would explain the need for the 3/8" G-10 plates aft.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 30 Jul 2021 08:50 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
I had my injector pump rebuilt last year but it cost me $1700. That included installation which is a total pain. In terms of torques, my injectors started leaking fuel after a few hours of run time so the mechanics obviously didn't get it right themselves. I had to get in there with the right wrench and re-tighten myself. No, I didn't use a torque wrench but they haven't leaked.

The G10 plates are curious. Must not be the same mounts? FWIW, my engine has low hours (2500 about). Many years ago my father-in-law paid to have the engine aligned and it's been perfect for the last 30 years.

On the engine wires, I have successfully rewired everything in a fashion that maintains the original connections from the engine but adds terminal strips at the engine and another at the panel. I also changed the wiring to include a solenoid for the glow plugs, a key switch at the panel, and glow plug button in-line with starter button (i.e. must press both to start). I also installed a new Balmar MC-614 external regulator with a new alternator so that changes things slightly. Happy to provide pics and diagrams of what I did. Easy in concept but much tougher in execution because the wiring is difficult and extensive being in cramped spaces.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 30 Jul 2021 09:46 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
The mounts are virtually identical and I set them at the same levels. The front were fine and show about the same amount of threads as the original. The rear required so much of the available thread on top that I ended up putting the G-10. I hadn't checked to see if the shaft was centered in the shaft log, but I suspect it was . . . low?

Yes to whatever you have for photos or recommendations. I'm leaving it push button on the glow plugs, but the rest of it is the same, I'm sure. Please send photos/diagrams to viexileATyahooDOTcom. Thanks. I've got a Balmar 100A and an external regulator. J

Just grabbed 4 NOS AGM batteries (never used), an old Pathfinder radar, new B&G MFD/GPS w/fwd sonar (and transducer) and masthead transducer, Yanmar 3GM30F, new Lewmar windlass, new Edson steering binnacle, Standard Horizon GPS (with antenna), Xantrex Prosine 2.5, 2 Renogy solar panels new in box, new Cap Horn steering gear, etc., etc.. Much of which is still attached to the divorce-abandoned T34 I'm going to give away (with stands and rigging and new sails - except I'm also keeping the new Harken MKIV #1). Couldn't help it. Too many shiny things, much of which I'll end up selling.

Caution dictates I have to be careful a certain T37 doesn't wind up in the same situation. But she's cool with all the new stuff.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 30 Jul 2021 14:12 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
I'll shoot you pics and diagrams.

FWIW, I followed the wiring guidance provided at Compass Marine (marinehowto.com). Some modifications were necessary but basically I followed his advice. Note that my key switch is not an ignition switch. it merely powers the regulator and allows current to the glow plugs (which then allow current to the starter button). The downside of this system is that you MUST turn the key switch OFF when you stop the engine otherwise you are still sending voltage to the alternator field and that will heat the alternator up and drain your battery. Might also damage the alternator w/o the fan running - dunno. I had to put a sticker on my pull stop to remind me to turn the key off. Also, FWIW, my 105A alternator seems to be running fine with the MC-614 set at belt load manager 2 setting. This is with a properly aligned and tensioned 3/8" belt which was standard for the W50. I can pump out something like 80+ amps which seems OK for my 3 G31 AGMs. I wanted a larger belt but that would've involved new pullies. No time or inclination for that. 300W solar seems to be keeping up with loads OK and I'm usually not on the hook for more than a few days anyway.

Sounds like a pretty good electronics spec. I went with all new Ray products except the VHF and I reused my old ST4000+ autohelm but I want to replace this with a proper below decks version. My new Ocean series Harken MKIV furler is the size 2 version which seems properly sized for my 150% genoa. I would be careful of the smaller version. I discussed this at length with my rigger and we felt it was marginal at best for this boat.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 30 Jul 2021 15:07 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Thank you.

My old Harken MK II is fine. I'm just taking what I can off this other boat, and what I don't keep is always for sale. I think it would be a bitch mounting it with the mast up right now anyway, and the riggers up here are some of the most expensive I've seen anywhere in the Western Hemisphere.

Yes, I've talked to "Mainesail" at Compass. Offered to pay him to come up and provide sage advice for a few hours - even travel time. Too busy.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 11 Aug 2021 07:39 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 09:05
Posts: 26
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
A bit late to the party.
But, the mounts are easily changed with the engine in place. it just takes some time. Disconnect the shaft and push the shaft back as much as you can to make some clearance. loosen the top nuts on all four mounts, then raise the lower nuts on either for or aft end as high as they will go. When one end is raised you can loosen one of the lower nuts on that end and the engine will balance on the other three mounts. remove all the fasting bolts and you should be able to remove that mount. You may have to loosen off the engine bracket as well(definalty on aft). replace the mount. and repeat for the others. took me about two hours by myself with no heavy lifting.

_________________
SV Sadie Mae
Hull 185
Toronto, Ontario.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Replaced Motor Mounts
PostPosted: 12 Aug 2021 08:08 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Now THAT is friggin' crafty!


 
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