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 Post subject: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 24 Jun 2021 07:00 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
. . . do you undo all the injector and feed lines at the pump, or undo the lines at the end connections on the engine and remove the whole thing ball of wax? Seems like I could clear the way to get the whole pile out more easily than (oh, my friggin' back) undoing and redoing all the lines on the pump.

I got the gasket set from Northwoods, new fuel lift pump, new heat exchanger from Mr. Cool. Degreasing everything for a "Ford" red paint job. I just know the throttle shaft on the injection pump needs new O rings.

Next chore is refabricating the companionway and getting rid of those winky 3/8" boards. I've got some wide teak from an old table, 5/8" thick. So I'll use the old trim, cut away where it would contain the thin boards, glue 5/8" to that to contain 5/8" "new" hatchboards and trim/sand to fit. Only issue is where the hatch pulls out and terminates. See? I'm thinking things through before butchering.

Getting this down to the "short strokes" as Pa used to say. We're in Maine, so that's a colloquialism.

But EVERY time I go to do something there's 5 other things that have to be done first.


 
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 Post subject: Re: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2021 14:56 
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Skipper

Joined: 13 Feb 2011 21:19
Posts: 337
Location: Canyon Lake, TX
T'were me, I'd pull the lines off the injectors and the fuel filter and haul the whole thing out.

Then you can pull the injectors also and have them tested.

_________________
Wayne
Master and Commander of the Sailing Vessel Impetuous
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
Subservient to no man except SWMBO
Any day without dock lines is a GOOD day!


 
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 Post subject: Re: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2021 15:04 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
WayneH wrote:
T'were me, I'd pull the lines off the injectors and the fuel filter and haul the whole thing out.

Then you can pull the injectors also and have them tested.

That is the way I did it when I had mine overhauled. Remember to keep track of the timing mark when you remove the pump.


 
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 Post subject: Re: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 25 Jun 2021 15:54 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Velera wrote:
WayneH wrote:
T'were me, I'd pull the lines off the injectors and the fuel filter and haul the whole thing out.

Then you can pull the injectors also and have them tested.

That is the way I did it when I had mine overhauled. Remember to keep track of the timing mark when you remove the pump.


Thank you. Laying there under the galley sink I sorta came to that conclusion. Even trying to do it on the "exemplar" W50 I've got in my garage just wasn't an easily happening thing. Undo a couple line clamps and pull the whole shebang. Off to the shop with the injectors. Carefully inspect the lines and decide whether a new set is advisable.

The timing mark is crystal clear, perfectly lined up with the little arrow. No need to re-mark anything. It looks like it can only go one way.

Are there any issues with the glow plugs from Northwoods? Seems I recall a tiny difference in some (diameter . . . threads?) vs. the stock plugs that might cause problems.

Oooo. And I found three Jabsco impeller sets for the raw water in a pile 'o stuff in a tote the previous owner left. And a spanky new 2.3 gpm water pump, 2 1500 gph bilge pumps and a 500gph auto. Oh, and a pair of $200 snatch blocks that were never used. Treasure. NIB.


 
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 Post subject: Re: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 26 Jun 2021 07:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
Be very careful with those injector lines. As you likely know, they are very precisely machined to be EXACTLY the right length and diameter (they are all identical in length despite their different twists and turns). I had a heckuva time trying to find a replacement for one of them and I am not sure if they are available as parts anymore from Westerbeke, but a machinist can probably fabricate them at some substantial expense if you really need one. It is up to you, but I believe in having the injector pump rebuilt, but am more dubious about what the machine shops will actually do to "rebuild" the injectors (someone with actual machinist experience could educate me on this). Mostly if you take one off and it "mists" and does not "dribble" fuel they are deemed good to go by my friends in the business. I suppose they could eventually wear out, but I have known diesels with 10K hours with original injectors. The pump has stuff rotating against O rings and that is going to require attention at some point and dripping at the pump orfices usually precedes ultimate failure. Mark the timing as you pull it out. I do not recall if this one can be put together out of time (some can), but it could be catastrophic to try to start the engine in some out of time configurations.
I don't think you are going to find this process as awful as you seem to anticipate it. Don't hurry. Get into the zen of the process.


 
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 Post subject: Re: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 26 Jun 2021 07:40 
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Tactictian

Joined: 16 Jan 2019 08:52
Posts: 103
I don't think there are any issues with glow plugs from Northwoods. I did order a set injector lines and didn't find them to be a match and had to send them back. Mine were ok but I thought a replacement would have been good and keep the old ones as an emergency back up. I had to replace the low pressure side pipes and I have to bend those. Different supplier. Re use the ferules if possible because they are expensive for some reason. I think I would have a good shop bend a set for me in the future. Calcutt boat shop

https://calcuttboatsshop.com/epages/c3a ... ories/2/10

Have a great selection of kit and you can use the photos to be sure of the fuel pipe fit if you order from them


 
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 Post subject: Re: When you remove the CAV pump?
PostPosted: 27 Jun 2021 18:09 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I have a 2nd "exemplar" engine that I got for $300 that has a full set of parts. But, like, the water pump is a Sherwood - it would work, but you'd have to move the mount with it. The heat exchanger ripped when I went to see what was left of the zinc, so I got a new one, painting up my original for an emergency spare. Sort of a different engine, same block, same injector pump, same line rack, injectors, etc., same lot of stuff, different tranny with a tranny cooler. It was in a launch.

I saw the raw water impellers for the Jabsco (with grease, gasket) at Hamilton today. $110.00 a pop. That's $330 retail and the same snatch blocks are $194.00 a pair at Hamilton. Holy crap.

Making the DYT deal for November out of Newport straight to St. Thomas onboard for the Dyer 29 (first). Debating on the ditch and Bahamas, DR, Mona, etc. or just working instead of cruising and paying the $15K (at the moment) they want to take the Tartan down. Trouble is, it will go up and up before they sail. The Dyer is $9,850. In 2003 I brought the Bristol 35 down on the "sinking boat" for $3500. Even got someone in Newport today lining me up a couple of moorings for end of October. I'll either load the Dyer and head south with the Tartan, or load them both and head for Logan. Jetblue nonstop home, less than 4 hours to St. Thomas.


 
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