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 Post subject: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 14 Jan 2021 11:43 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
Guys,

I'm embarking on the installation of a new alternator, external regulator, and all new associated wiring including engine panel. This is a daunting project for me considering the utter rats nest that is the stock wiring that needs to come out. I have the original wiring diagram and I started labeling the old wires and connection points (lots to engine). These wires are 40 years old and they are shot. I also need to rewire the output to the battery because I still have the old ammeter on the panel. I'm looking for any tips and guidance on what to do and not do as the case may be. I'm really dreading this but need to do it. Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 15 Jan 2021 07:45 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2010 10:24
Posts: 191
What a fun project! My first suggestion is to buy the proper tools. Study ‘Mainsails’ guides and buy heat shrink terminals and wire in bulk from genuinedealz, they can also make up the larger cables if you don’t want the expense of buying the big battery cable crimpers. A wire stripper is really a good tool,also a heat gun. Start the whole system with MRBF fuses on the batteries.lots of sitting and thinking involved!!

_________________
Hull #6


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 17 Jan 2021 08:36 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
Removed the engine side wiring harness. Wires don't seem to be marine grade and old trailer connectors are heavily oxidized. All of the crimps were terrible. This is long overdue.


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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2021 18:34 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
Has anyone replaced the pulleys to accommodate a larger alternator belt? Can you comment on difficulty and expense for DIY? The stock 3/8" belt is just not going to cut it. New alternator is 105A and I'd like to extract as much of that as possible without blowing through belts. Thanks.


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 25 Jan 2021 11:57 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I searched high and low for the same pulley system available for the W-40. It doesn't exist. Retrofit of some kind or other is going to be required. Trans Atlantic Diesel asked whether another pulley could be bolted to the existing pulley. I'm guessing something custom is going to be required. BUT, if you stumble onto something, please, share! I shall do the same, but I won't be on it in earnest for another 3 months. The boat is 2000 miles away.


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 26 Jan 2021 15:15 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 18:12
Posts: 325
You mean like this, there are a few other sites like this around:

https://boundlessoutfitters.com/product ... erbeke-40/

Richard


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 26 Jan 2021 18:09 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
berwick wrote:
You mean like this, there are a few other sites like this around:

https://boundlessoutfitters.com/product ... erbeke-40/

Richard

Yep. Except Transatlantic Diesel told me the W40 kit won't work on the W50. Know of any sites that include the W50 kit?


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 31 Jan 2021 21:15 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
jfalsone wrote:
Has anyone replaced the pulleys to accommodate a larger alternator belt? Can you comment on difficulty and expense for DIY? The stock 3/8" belt is just not going to cut it. New alternator is 105A and I'd like to extract as much of that as possible without blowing through belts. Thanks.

I drove my 105 AMP alternator on my W50 for 20 years feeding an external regulator for 440ah of golf cart batteries with no problem. That included 2 years of cruising in Central America with an ancient refrigeration system that never let me down (still have it). I do not recall having to change a belt. Ever. I would guess I put 2000 hrs on that system, before I repowered with a Yanmar and reduced it to 80 Amp alternator. If I had it to do over again, I would have left the smart regulator out of my current 80amp system. It isn't needed. You will find if you are using a "smart" regulator and have a large bank (and if you have a good battery monitor so you know what is actually going in and out of your bank) the max load on your alternator will be of a short duration until it cuts back (long explanation of acceptance rates here if you are interested--most folks do not calculate the numbers of throughput and acceptance rates on their systems). My view is that most folks go overboard (as I did) with battery capacity, high output alternators, and stuff compared to needs and usage. And that causes problems of undercharged batteries (especially if you actually do not stay in shore power marinas where your smart shore charger works on your batteries for hours). And there is always someone ready to sell you more capacity of everything with the thought that "more is better". With electrical stuff that just isn't true. If you have too large a bank, it will take forever to fully charge it with a "smart" charger it will taper the charge a lot based on how close the bank is to target voltage feedback--so the larger the bank, the longer it will take to fully charge, no matter how much alternator you have or how sophisticated a system you have. I have been thinking about writing a book on "Sensible Boatownership" and cataloging my 40 years of boat ownership experiences and mistakes. I think Nigel Calder actually agrees with me on the electrical issues of overdoing it (except the importance of a good battery monitoring system), but those folks make their livings reviewing the newest and "best"--not what is practical and trouble free. Actually, I am going to write the book. I just decided.


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 01 Feb 2021 09:00 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
Thanks Valera. My system is now comprised of three Odyssey G31 100ah AGM for house bank and one G24 AGM for start/reserve. I will be installing 100W solar but may add later if it makes sense based on useage. I just finished rewiring it all. I'm using a Blue Sea ACR between the banks. My new alternator is Compass Marine and I will be using a Balmar MC 614 regulator. Mainesail tells me that with a standard W50 3/8" belt I will generate 60-70 amps (controlled through belt manager) and that my alternator will be "very happy". Of course, I want to make sure I have the right charging profile correct for best bulk and acceptance performance. My biggest load is refrigeration right now (4-5 amp intermittent I think) but I will need to figure running a laptop off a portable inverter too.

So, moderate size bank for moderate loads and external regulation. The info about your cruising experience with 3/8" belt is valuable.


 
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 Post subject: Re: New Alternator and Engine Panel Wiring
PostPosted: 02 Feb 2021 21:51 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
jfalsone wrote:
Thanks Valera. My system is now comprised of three Odyssey G31 100ah AGM for house bank and one G24 AGM for start/reserve. I will be installing 100W solar but may add later if it makes sense based on useage. I just finished rewiring it all. I'm using a Blue Sea ACR between the banks. My new alternator is Compass Marine and I will be using a Balmar MC 614 regulator. Mainesail tells me that with a standard W50 3/8" belt I will generate 60-70 amps (controlled through belt manager) and that my alternator will be "very happy". Of course, I want to make sure I have the right charging profile correct for best bulk and acceptance performance. My biggest load is refrigeration right now (4-5 amp intermittent I think) but I will need to figure running a laptop off a portable inverter too.

So, moderate size bank for moderate loads and external regulation. The info about your cruising experience with 3/8" belt is valuable.

So if you do the math on what you are presenting here, You have about 150 ah of usable power between recharge cycles--because you do not want to take them down much more than 50% I would assume. The 100w solar will be very valuable to "top off" your batteries from the deficit your "smart" regulator will leave (because--no matter how you set it--it is going radically reduce the charge rate as it approaches "full" voltage--look at what amps are actually going in after the first hour and what you % of charge is on your monitor--if it does not stop charging altogether from heat sensors on the alternator or battery if you have those options) but the solar will not really provide much of your basic needs. Seems like you are set up with moderation as you say and should get along nicely. I do like most of what Mainesail says, but we disagree on some of his details. He is selling stuff now and I don't blame him but it has sort of gotten him back in the retail business pushing more is better and I will never understand his love of Balmar stuff considering the number of failures he has reported--except that it is very good looking and grossly overpriced. I have met him in a Maine anchorage a couple years ago--his boat looks as nice as you would expect. If you ever want to simplify things, you could lose the starting battery. I assume your bank is divided (? or maybe not with three batteries?) in two banks. You are very unlikely to have a dead cell in both batteries and if you flatten both batteries you can get a small diesel started again by cutting out the bad battery out of your system with the switch and letting the other rest for a few hours. It will start. I have never had a starting battery in my boats in 45 years of cruising (just two banks that I ordinarily run together 99% of the time). I have flattened batteries a couple times accidentally and had a bad cell once, but no real problems.

The big thing you can do to manage power is to deal with your refrigerator demand. Not sure what you have done, but the T37 box is very well insulated except some of the tops are not sealed or properly insulated. Also, the compressor should be in the coolest place possible. In the tropics I used to open the lazarette cover over night so the thing was not fighting engine heat. Also, I put a bigger computer fan on the compressor and put a tiny one (these use much less current than the OEM and move more air)in the box to keep the cool circulating off the bottom (and put a cork in the drain so the cool does not run into the bilge). All this reduced my compressor run time by at least 30%. Froze my beer in Panama. So you can increase your electricity production or manage your energy sometimes. For most of us, refrigeration is more than half of your energy budget.
FWIW
Ray


 
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