Deprecated: Function set_magic_quotes_runtime() is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/tartan37.com/httpdocs/t37forum/common.php on line 88 Tartan37.com • View topic - Filters and Fluids, etc...

Tartan37.com

Tartan 37 Owner's Forum - Ride the wind, but look good doing it!
The time is 28 Mar 2024 16:51

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 34 Posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 29 Dec 2014 14:31 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 393
Hello all, I am coming up on 50 hours since I had the engine serviced just after I purchased Holiday. Going to start learning to do the basic engine maintenance on my own and wondering how often I should do the following to my W50 (sorry, a bunch of questions here. thanks in advance for any help):
Change oil and filter
Change primary fuel filter element
Change secondary fuel filter element
Change transmission fluid
Change raw water impeller and gasket
Manual mentions to change the air filter. W50 doesn't appear to have that? Is equivalent the crankcase breather? Any maintenance to perform there?

Went through spares on the boat from PO:
No spare oil filter but a note to use Napa Gold Filter 1515. Is that correct?
Found primary fuel filter elements, one 30 micron and two 10 microns. Does it matter which I use?
Found a fuel filter element for a Racor 200FG, which isn't what I have. Maybe a previous filter? Or does that go to something else that I don't know about?
Found 2 Perkins P/N 26561117 Fuel Filters. Anyone know if this is an exact replacement for secondary fuel filter element 14776?
Found three impellers that I am guessing were replaced before they broke down and kept as spares. They are 12 blade. I saw the thread on Globe Impellers, that appear to be 6 blade. Does it matter? Are both a replacement for Westerbeke PN 18184 from the manual? Also, from instructions on this board, is there a specific kind of grease I am supposed to use for lubricating inside the water pump?

Any info or suggestions appreciated. I am a novice so be as specific as you like! Am I missing any obvious basic maintenance? I am already checking and changing the zincs often. Engine runs great with oil pressure and temperature what they are supposed to be.


Attachments:
IMG_20141228_105925_879.jpg
IMG_20141228_105925_879.jpg [ 756.09 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
IMG_20141229_133746_127.jpg
IMG_20141229_133746_127.jpg [ 694.24 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
IMG_20141229_133845_970.jpg
IMG_20141229_133845_970.jpg [ 943.51 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
IMG_20141229_133808_358.jpg
IMG_20141229_133808_358.jpg [ 544.44 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
IMG_20141229_133907_253.jpg
IMG_20141229_133907_253.jpg [ 887.06 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

_________________
Zach Duncan
SV Holiday
Hull# 280
 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 29 Dec 2014 14:34 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 393
Here is my sea water pump diagram from my manual. It looks a little different than the one here http://www.tartan37.com/T37TRC3S2.pdf with different PN for impeller and gasket. Just want to make sure I get the right thing.


Attachments:
IMG_20141229_142237_563.jpg
IMG_20141229_142237_563.jpg [ 860.98 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
IMG_20141229_142243_258.jpg
IMG_20141229_142243_258.jpg [ 922.87 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

_________________
Zach Duncan
SV Holiday
Hull# 280
 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 29 Dec 2014 19:31 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
Zach-

Here's what I do:

1. Change engine oil and filter every 50 hrs or before winter layup, which ever comes first.
2. Change transmission oil annually, normally in the Spring
3. Replace fuel filters annually, normally in the Spring.

Filters:

1. Raycor: 2010M 2 micron or 10 micron
2. Engine fuel filter: C1191A
3. Engine Oil Filter: PH8A

For the engine oil and fuel filters, I go to an auto parts store and they provide a filter from cross referencing these numbers. The filters you have on hand may meet these criteria.

Raw Water Pump:

Looks like you have a Sherwood R340G-1 pump. The impellor is Part No. 10077. Buy it on the internet, much cheaper. On the Sherwood pump, I would change it every 2 years minimum.

Other W50s have a Jabsco 5616-001 pump. I would replace the impellor and seal annually. I have both pumps. From my experience the impellors for both last 2 years, but on the Jabsco pump, the impellor includes the shaft surface for the shaft seal, which I find wears and leaks after about a year.

Hope this helps.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 30 Dec 2014 09:18 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 393
Thanks for these part #s and info Jim. Looks like the Perkins 26561117 is the right one. http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.a ... pn=C1191A. And also the Napa 1515 is the right one. http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.a ... F&pn=PH8A.

_________________
Zach Duncan
SV Holiday
Hull# 280


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 30 Dec 2014 14:03 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I second everything that Jim said. I would not worry about exceeding the 50 hour limit if you were out cruising---modern oils are so much better than the old ones and the most damage is the starta and stops where the engine sucks up moisture. My new Yanmar recommends oil changes after 150 hours, but I do it more often.

I would be VERY careful to not overfill the transmission. I believe yours takes 500ml of ATF. If you overfill it (as I did) you will be removing it to replace all the gaskets. I think you could also let this go to every other year.

I would not use a 2 micron filter--though you might ask someone about this. As I recall a particle at 10 microns can easily go through the pump and injectors and I think someone told me that the smaller micron filter might be hard on your injector pump. I used 2 micron for some time and had to replace mine--but I cannot say the two issues were related. Most of the modern diesels use 10 or 20 micron filters.

You can be safe and change them often---probably in the fall, but the my new, but your secondary is not going to be very dirty if you are going through a Racor 10 micron first. I used to change that one every 2-3 years and it never had anything in it. I think there is some risk of contamination just by opening the fuel system up to change the filters.

Some of the "cross referenced" filters do not have anti return valves in them. I bought some in Mexico like that. What you will get is a lot of clatter at start up because the engine is not as heavily lubricated on start up because there is a delay in getting full lubricant flow higher in the engine when all the oil in the filter has flowed back into the crankcase. You can tell which filter hsve this by looking at them closely--the holes have a rubber flapper over the intake on the filters you want. Most do this, but not all.

In talking about maintenance of fuel systems there is one thing that is not mentioned here that is, IMHO, more important to the integrity of fuel supply than changing the filters:

In the 70s and 80s a lot of production manufacturers, including Tartan, put a screen on the pickup tube in your tank. This is a premier spot to get growth of gurvy crud which will block the fuel supply before it ever gets to any of your filters. Probably someone has had the good sense or had a failure and this has been removed. If it has not, I would remove it. I also think it is a good idea to take out the tank sensor (which is right over the lowest point in the tank) annually and pump the crud and water out of your tank into a clear container. You will have an idea if how fouled your tank is and you will deny the water the bacteria needs to flourish in there.

The other key maintenance item is to replace--regularly--- the O ring on your deck fill. I think the reason is obvious, but I rarely see this mentioned in maintenance suggestions.

Sounds like you are paying attention to the details. Be sure that you replace the zincs in the HX and clean it out. Special care in getting the rubber cap back on just right as the cooling system will not function correctly with it even slightly out of position. It is devilishly difficult the first few times you do this, but it is a skill W50 folks need to cultivate. Remember to flush the system occasionally with white vinegar or Salt Away if you want to get the longest life from your system.

FWIW.

Ray
Velera #373


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 30 Dec 2014 14:09 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I second everything that Jim said. I would not worry about exceeding the 50 hour limit if you were out cruising---modern oils are so much better than the old ones and the most damage is the starta and stops where the engine sucks up moisture. My new Yanmar recommends oil changes after 150 hours, but I do it more often.

I would be VERY careful to not overfill the transmission. I believe yours takes 500ml of ATF. If you overfill it (as I did) you will be removing it to replace all the gaskets. I think you could also let this go to every other year.

I would not use a 2 micron filter--though you might ask someone about this. As I recall a particle at 10 microns can easily go through the pump and injectors and I think someone told me that the smaller micron filter might be hard on your injector pump. I used 2 micron for some time and had to replace mine--but I cannot say the two issues were related. Most of the modern diesels use 10 or 20 micron filters.

You can be safe and change them often---probably in the fall, but the my new, but your secondary is not going to be very dirty if you are going through a Racor 10 micron first. I used to change that one every 2-3 years and it never had anything in it. I think there is some risk of contamination just by opening the fuel system up to change the filters.

Some of the "cross referenced" filters do not have anti return valves in them. I bought some in Mexico like that. What you will get is a lot of clatter at start up because the engine is not as heavily lubricated on start up because there is a delay in getting full lubricant flow higher in the engine when all the oil in the filter has flowed back into the crankcase. You can tell which filter hsve this by looking at them closely--the holes have a rubber flapper over the intake on the filters you want. Most do this, but not all.

In talking about maintenance of fuel systems there is one thing that is not mentioned here that is, IMHO, more important to the integrity of fuel supply than changing the filters:

In the 70s and 80s a lot of production manufacturers, including Tartan, put a screen on the pickup tube in your tank. This is a premier spot to get growth of gurvy crud which will block the fuel supply before it ever gets to any of your filters. Probably someone has had the good sense or had a failure and this has been removed. If it has not, I would remove it. I also think it is a good idea to take out the tank sensor (which is right over the lowest point in the tank) annually and pump the crud and water out of your tank into a clear container. You will have an idea if how fouled your tank is and you will deny the water the bacteria needs to flourish in there.

The other key maintenance item is to replace--regularly--- the O ring on your deck fill. I think the reason is obvious, but I rarely see this mentioned in maintenance suggestions.

Sounds like you are paying attention to the details. Be sure that you replace the zincs in the HX and clean it out. Special care in getting the rubber cap back on just right as the cooling system will not function correctly with it even slightly out of position. It is devilishly difficult the first few times you do this, but it is a skill W50 folks need to cultivate. Remember to flush the system occasionally with white vinegar or Salt Away if you want to get the longest life from your system.

FWIW.

Ray
Velera #373


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 30 Dec 2014 14:36 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
Wow... I've never touched the transmission in 30 years. Skipper didn't do it before me so I never did it when I took over. Hmmm... be worried or if it ain't broke don't fix it? Such decisions...

I'll third all the rest. I stretch my impeller to 3 years now because we're seasonal and I take it out of the pump for the winter. Doesn't apply to you in the toasty parts of the country though.

_________________
SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 02 Jan 2015 08:05 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 393
Couple other things still wanting to make sure of. Is there any air filter/air intake maintenance to do? And also, is there a specific kind of grease/preferred product for doing the lubricating in the raw water pump during servicing?

Thanks again for all this great info. I would be totally lost without this message board. If I have time, going to tackle the oil and filter change this weekend.

Thanks again, Zach

_________________
Zach Duncan
SV Holiday
Hull# 280


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 02 Jan 2015 09:05 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
The W50 has no air filter.

Your Sherwood raw water pump requires no routine lubrication. If I recall correctly it has a sealed bearing in the body and a graphite bushing in the end cap. The impeller is water lubricated. The only time lubrication is required is when you install a new impeller or reinstall the old. Some believe you should lubricate it so it doesn't wear when you initially start the engine. I don't worry much about it because I always assure the pump is flooded when I first start the engine. If you do chose to lubricate the impeller, do not use a petroleum based grease. It can degrade the rubber in the impeller. The pump manufacturers sell special grease for this evolution. In a pinch I have in the past used dish soap. My thoughts were that it would wash off quickly and provide good initial lubrication. It worked and I had no adverse reaction. Just my thoughts.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Filters and Fluids, etc...
PostPosted: 03 Jan 2015 09:03 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
I agree with Ray that most engine wear and tear comes during startup. To counter this, I have been adding a quart of Lucas Oil Treatment at each oil change. In theory, it's supposed to improve the oil film left on the wear surfaces so friction is reduced at startup. I've been reading up on oil treatments lately. Some users highly recommend it. Others think it's a waste. All seem to think that it can't hurt. I'm wondering what others on the List think.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
 Profile Email  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 34 Posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Powered by phpBB © 2002, 2006 phpBB Group