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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 26 May 2018 17:01 
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The sizes are 1/4 and 3/8

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Zach Duncan
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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 27 May 2018 10:09 
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zdunc wrote:
The sizes are 1/4 and 3/8


That is the NPT size correct?

So in the attached link
http://www.boatzincs.com/engine-sizes.html

I would get the E0 for the heat exchanger and could get the E-1F for the Oil Cooler. The length on the E-1F is only 1.25 inches so I think if I get that one, I would not need to cut it down.


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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 28 May 2018 20:13 
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Correct. I'm going to check on those shorter ones too. Always a pain to cut the ones like I do. Thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 28 May 2018 20:54 
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I ended up going with with the E-1G which is only 1 inch long. I ordered 2 of the E-1G plus 2 of E-0 and total shipped was $25 bucks


 
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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2018 01:10 
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I changed the Oil Cooler zinc today with the shorter one I ordered from boatzincs. That replacement went fairly smoothly without any issues.

I went to replace the heat exchanger zinc afterwards and when I unscrewed the zinc, the end broke off and is stuck in the hole. I believe I need to remove the end cap on the heat exchanger to access this with a pair of pliers. A few questions.

When I open up the end cap, will it drain the entire system (antifreeze)? If so, how large of a bucket do I need.

Is opening the end cap the best way to get the broken Zinc out?

How can I tell which version of the heat exchanger I have? Is it a good idea to replace the end cap gasket at the same time? If so, where can I get one?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2018 05:54 
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When you open the end cap, only the raw water that didn't drain out through the zinc opening will come out (not that much). I just let it go into the bilge. Opening the end cap is simple and the best way to get the zinc. I've never changed that end cap gasket. Unless yours is leaking, I'd leave it. Just make sure you align it on the exchanger and cap with the indentions on the gasket. It's not hard. You'll see the indention pattern when you get it off. I'm not sure on the version. I posted a pic, and the experienced guys on here told me I had the newer better one. Not sure what the other looks like.

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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 17 Jun 2018 23:33 
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I opened up the back of the heat exchanger today and replaced the zinc. The zinc disintegrated when I tried to grab it with a pair of piers to remove it. I ended up having to use picks to remove it from the hole, but eventually got all the remnants out. Picture of the new zinc installed is attached. I was worried about installing the gasket on propertly, but it really wasn't hard at all. There was plenty of indention on the gasket (see picture) and it really couldn't go on any other way. Buttoned everything up with no leaks and water was flowing out the exhaust.

On another note, I found a spare jabsco raw water pump on the boat today with some of the items the previous owner left on the boat. I'm assuming it's in working condition since both ends are plugged. I pulled the cover off and it looks like there is grease on the impeller so I'm assuming it is good to go.


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 Post subject: Re: Changing Pencil Zincs W50
PostPosted: 18 Jun 2018 07:58 
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Great job!

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