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 Post subject: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 12 Mar 2020 15:11 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 334
Location: Maine/USVI
First, anyone actually replace their rear seal? It can't be brain surgery, but I'm sure it's time consuming. I haven't figured out where the oil in the pan came from (engine wasn't running). Likewise, if it is advisable, has anyone tossed their oil cooler, and, if so, plugging the gap? I think a lot of the apparent oil was less oil and more water and diesel. Diesel from some gasket or O-ring on the injector pump I'd surmise. Water (without coolant in it) from who knows where? Cockpit drains? Hatch leak? I still haven't figured out how water gets into my bilge on the hard, but I have yet to rebed all potential culprits stem to stern.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 12 Mar 2020 20:18 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 390
You can get rid of the oil cooler, it a MAJOR failure waiting to happen. I ran my W50 with an oil cooler for 20 years in the lower Bay. Marcus the very knowledgeable owner of TransAtlantic Diesel told me to get rid of it, after mine failed. Just jump it out, can't plug the flow. The rear seal is a common spot to leak, so is the every gasketed area on a Westerbeke. Lol. Can be done in the boat, I had to pull in the motor forward an inch to pull the tranny.

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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 13 Mar 2020 11:00 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 334
Location: Maine/USVI
Understood. Time for the bilge crawl, I guess. I have everything off the boat, so this shouldn't be too bad. I'll start with getting the heat exchanger out and go from there. My crankcase oil still shows full, so it's not like its flowing or anything. I'll wipe her down first and see if I can find where things may be coming from.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 14 Mar 2020 10:29 
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Midshipman

Joined: 16 Jan 2019 08:52
Posts: 60
I am replacing my rear seal as I have the engine in bits in my garage. I had my hoses on the oil cooler swaged so I eliminated the chance of a leak there and have inspected it thoroughly so I will keep it. I got my seal from Northwoods Tractors in fact my rod and bearings, gaskets and all were supplied by them as the Leland rep in the US.Call Cynthia for any of the bits you neeed for your Westerbeke.
Had to replace the cap bolts with ARP's and waiting on the big ends being re-sized as a result. I will be building back and re-installing in the next weeks.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 04 May 2020 08:45 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 334
Location: Maine/USVI
So how is this going? I've been saving the engine work for rainy days, procrastinating, but am starting to work down through. Been poking at the bolts necessary to pull out the heat exchanger with WD-40 penetrant (worked best in a couple of trials I looked at - beat PB Blaster). One of the things I think I need to do is pull the injector pump. The previous owner told me it had a leaky bit after rebuild - an o ring or something. Said it was typical. I want no more fuel or oil in the engine pan.

Ahhh, here we go. I haven't rebuilt an engine in over 20 years. The last Westerbeke I played with I gave up (a MOWOG 4 cylinder sewing machine, basically). Replaced it with a Yanmar 2YM20. Dammit.

Putting in time daily now. Decided the better part of valor is to get out for awhile, skip the entire eastern seaboard and plan for a straight shot back to the Caribbean from Maine. Then reverse it in May next year and so forth. This whole thing is an earth shattering change. Sailing back and forth may become the semi-annual thing. Or not sailing back at all. Friends in Patagonia are signaling.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 06 May 2020 11:41 
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Midshipman

Joined: 16 Jan 2019 08:52
Posts: 60
Just fired it up yesterday and gave her a run on the engine saddle I built. I have to return to Canada on Monday and self quarantine for two weeks. I will be back in November to reinstall and launch for a trip down to Fort Meyers. The rebuild went well and as I said you can get everything you need through Cynthia at Northwoods tractors who is the North American dealer for Leland. The only thing I regret not doing was replacing the original CAV filter with spin on filter conversion. I will be ordering one of those over the summer. Good luck with the rebuild. I think it was worth it as I am confident it will last my lifetime. Mark #337


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 08 May 2020 09:51 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 334
Location: Maine/USVI
I think my areas of focus are the injector pump, heat exchanger (clean or simply replace) and rear seal. I don't see oil leaking. I see diesel fuel still showing up in water (not coolant) in the engine pan after a rain. And the dipstick shows full.

I'm going to put a Racor in here instead of this Volvo thingie fuel filter off the tank. Probably start with 30 micron, down to 20 micron and down to whatever the fine filter is on the engine. Need to make sure to get the water out these days.

I'm tempted to yank the whole engine and do it in the shop, but that would be a royal pain.

Tell me what you can about the injector pump. Previous owner said there "was a bad O-ring somewhere" as he was told by a diesel mechanic, and that would stop the fuel leak. I understand I'll have to mark it when it comes off for proper re-installation and timing.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 08 May 2020 17:28 
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Midshipman

Joined: 16 Jan 2019 08:52
Posts: 60
The CAV injection pump is fairly fool proof I think. When you remove it off the flange you can make a little etch mark on the flange of the pump and the mounting. There should be a little identifying arrow on the top. The flange has slotted holes to allow a slight rotation of the pump after installation to advance the timing or decrease what ever is decided. The installation of the pump and timing chain is really dead simple with a small 3/16 pin to line everything up on the pump. I had advice that the pump very rarely fails and a rebuild isn't all that difficult as it was expected that farmers don't really appreciate complicated stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h26p78YZIr4

The Supplier I was dealing with offers a rebuild with core exchange for about $600.00 but also has a rebuild kit for cheap. Watching the video and buying a kit would be my choice if I needed to rebuild but, like my injectors the pump just got a general clean up and fired up like a fire cracker.
I would rather the pain of a couple of days to haul it out and put it in the shop on a $60.00 Harbor freight engine stand. Your back will thank you and at the end of the day you can sit in your"Moaning chair", a must in any shop and have a cool one


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 09 May 2020 14:46 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 334
Location: Maine/USVI
Friggin' Aussies. Razz I've got Aussie friends (and an aussie shepherd boat dog), and like West Indians, they can change their dialect sufficiently thickly so I can't understand a word they're saying. That brought back memories and a good laugh.

I understand that my injection pump was rebuilt not long ago, but has a leak somewhere. Supposedly there's only about 1200 hours on my engine. I was going to start at the bottom and work up through, see what I can see, replace o-rings, gaskets, clean and paint. I've done it with Volvo and Yanmar but wasn't successful with the one weird Westerbeke MOWOG I tried to do.

Thanks for that youtube reference. Very nice.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rear Seal and/or Oil Cooler?
PostPosted: 22 May 2020 12:24 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 680
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
When we got a bunch of Diesel in the sump, it was the throttle on the injection pump. Common for our pump and comes with age I think, not hours of operation.

I'll be hunting a new diesel drip this season. I've used two techniques that have proven pretty useful. For outside the sump I set up cardboard outside the sump. For inside sump, I clean it up and line it with paper towels and blue tape so you get tracers from the drip to the front of the sump. That's just to identify where it's dripping from, of course, which is rarely where it's leaking on the W50... but it gets you a step closer in the hunt.

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1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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