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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 10 Aug 2019 20:31 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 254
Location: Maine/USVI
Oh. God. I really hope my W50 has the 1200 hrs. claimed by the previous owner. I don't mind doing a repower, but I spent the last 2 hours on my back under the centerboard because the yard blocked it 1.25" too close together.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2019 07:13 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 541
I would not worry much about the number of hours on the W50. My view is that #of hours is not very representative of the health of the engine block. In fact, I think there can be an opposite effect. If someone just used the engine to back out of a slip for 35 years and did not aggressively maintain the thing at least annually, I would prefer to have a block with 4500 hours of passage use and some solid preventive maintenance. The blocks of most of these diesels are not the major problem makers if they have clean oil and fuel. It is the cooling systems and particularly the heat exchangers (especially the cobbled ones that Westerbeke often used) if they have not been maintained regularly. I would have no problem putting any block of an engine that runs without excessive smoke and oil consumption in a boat—but I would make sure I had carefully gone through a close examination of the the cooling system innards (total disassembly and cleaning of the exchangers) of and the exhaust elbow. These parts and cold operation seem to be he ultimate cause of the demise of most diesels, not being “worn out” by thoughtful use. I have seen small diesels of world cruisers with 14000 hours that were still going strong.
FWIW

Ray


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2019 07:56 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 362
The heat exchanger both water and the oil are the problem. I know of two W50 that were killed with the oil exchanger failing, including mine. Been told by a few in the know they are not required. After rebuilding I ran my W50 for 15 years without one. I also replaced the SW to FW exchanger for one from Mr Cool. Much better built for 1/5 the cost. The W50 will leak oil, they all do after a while.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2019 15:22 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 541
puffcard wrote:
The heat exchanger both water and the oil are the problem. I know of two W50 that were killed with the oil exchanger failing, including mine. Been told by a few in the know they are not required. After rebuilding I ran my W50 for 15 years without one. I also replaced the SW to FW exchanger for one from Mr Cool. Much better built for 1/5 the cost. The W50 will leak oil, they all do after a while.

I really think what you did is exactly the right thing: the saltwater oil heat exchanger was another preposterously dumb idea in the original W50 and your rerigging that was smart by whoever thought of it. I am not sure I would feel comfortable running the engine constantly for days without an oil cooler, but there is nothing special (except that it is way too small and runs on salt water) about the original oil cooler on the W50. If you replace it, it seems smart to at least put a generic one that is much larger. Better yet, cool it on the freshwater side of the system as you have done.
Ray Durkee
Velera #373


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2019 17:20 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 362
Marcus at TransAtlantic Diesel, who is a very good dealer for Westerbeke and Perkins. He was the one to put me on removing the oil cooler. Never looked back. He won't even sell you one.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 18 Sep 2019 04:01 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 14 Feb 2016 11:57
Posts: 12
Dave- I'm about to "yank" my 5432. I think it may be a tad larger than your Westerbeke, but how did you manage to secure the prop shaft before disconnecting the transmission? Can you just remove the 4 bolts and let it hang?

Ray
T37 Javelina #482


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 18 Sep 2019 07:04 
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Skipper

Joined: 04 Aug 2013 13:33
Posts: 234
It was nothing elegant Ray - I'll attach an image. As you know the slightest movement of the Lasdrop can allow an inflow. There is also the need to maintain shaft alignment as a point of reference when the boat is in the water.

A 1" hole drilled through a block was cut in half and then joined together around the shaft was epoxied to the hull before touching anything. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm in the book if you would like to reach me directly.


Attachments:
Shaft locked in place 20180708.jpg
Shaft locked in place 20180708.jpg [ 3.6 MB | Viewed 0 times ]

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Dave Lorick
Lunacy #198
Tampa, FL
 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 18 Sep 2019 07:05 
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Skipper

Joined: 04 Aug 2013 13:33
Posts: 234
Here's another view...


Attachments:
Wood block to hold Lasdrop and shaft in place 20180708.jpg
Wood block to hold Lasdrop and shaft in place 20180708.jpg [ 2.38 MB | Viewed 0 times ]

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Dave Lorick
Lunacy #198
Tampa, FL
 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 19 Sep 2019 04:03 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 14 Feb 2016 11:57
Posts: 12
Perfect- thank you!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Images of W50 being pulled out from under cockpit
PostPosted: 29 Sep 2019 16:31 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 14 Feb 2016 11:57
Posts: 12
Ok- the engine is out (without too much damage done to the boat...), and I have a one or two annoying questions...

I generally do not re-use nuts and bolts for the major components, so I'm replacing them. I was surprised to find grade 8 bolts and nuts on the shaft coupling; maybe a previous owner used them since they matched the color of the original engine? Anyway, they seem to have held up well with only minor surface rust, so I bought new ones at Ace along with nylock nuts and same washers. The question, as they don't seem to be that well machined-- how prone to galling is grade 8 steel, and would it be appropriate to use something like lanacote on the threads (I use that instead of oil on stainless hardware to prevent both galling and to protect the metal a bit). Or, should I use stainless fasteners?

Ray


 
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