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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding W50
PostPosted: 24 May 2019 19:27 
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Navigator

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 91
After running the engine for about 10 hours I am leaking diesel fuel from I believe the top bleed point of the secondary filter. I had quite a bit of fuel on the absorbent pad after motoring for 10 hours this weekend and the side of the fuel filter was covered in fuel. The top bleed point on the filter housing seems to be leaking from the banjo bolt. I tightened it and it seems to help - I don't believe it's leaking anymore, but I have a few questions.

1. Are you supposed to replace the banjo washers each time you replace the filter? I'm assuming they are crush washers so they eventually go bad.
2. The parts manual recommends part number Westerbeke 11944 which I believe is for an M10 bolt, but I don't know the diameter. Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions of this washer so I can find a suitable replacement? I'd like to have a spare for when we leave in case the leak gets bad. I am in Mexico so it might not be possible to purchase the westerbeke part directly.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Bleeding W50
PostPosted: 24 May 2019 21:54 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 530
Yes you are supposed to change the banjo washers everytime you break the system. You can get by with reusing the copper ones a time or two if they are not messed upóbut the aluminum ones are crap. Take the old washer to any truck diesel place. Use copper washers if you can get them.

By the way. I never had a problem with restarting my W50 without going through the bleed process as outlined. Here is the key.
1. Before you start anything, turn off the fuel on the tank top so it does not run back into the tank when you break the system.
2. Fill everything you can (like the racor bowl and the filter itself) when you are putting the system back together.
3. Loosen the nuts around the injectors as you try to start the engine. When it starts on one or two cylinders you just let the air out from each injector until they all run smoothly. What you have is a self priming engine then. I found this much easier and faster than trying to find all the little bleed screws. The engine would usually start and run badly even without bleeding. Then just loosen each injector nut until the air is out. Easy.
Ray Durkee
Velera


 
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