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 Post subject: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 08 Nov 2018 12:51 
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Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 321
I was thinking of replacing my stock alternator on my W50 before heading south to the Bahamas this year just because it looks like it's really old and also one of the mounting bolt holes stripped when I was tightening a new belt tension requiring me to thru bolt for mounting. Made me wonder what else was deteriorating on the inside.

I searched the forum and found lots of info, but I'm looking for exact info...like a link that someone says "buy this one, with these attributes, and connect it like this." Smile

I haven't had any problems with the stock charging capacity since mostly we rely on solar. But, is there a better alternator that I should get that is an easy switch out or should I just go with a "like replacement" to what I have? Where do you find either of these (like replacement or upgrade)?

Would this one on Amazon be the right one for an exact "like" replacement? https://www.amazon.com/ALTERNATOR-FITS- ... B013TCZCD0

I saw another post where this one was mentioned but it was for a W40. Would it work/be better? http://www.hamiltonferris.com/products/ ... egulated/9

I'm looking for simple here, but if it's just as easy to put on a 100 amp... Any thoughts or suggestions? Not really wanting to add extra regulators, different belts, pulleys, temp concerns and all that.

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Zach Duncan
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 08 Nov 2018 19:34 
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Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 296
My old Westerbeke, we had an Ample Power 100 amp, that's the most you can realistically run with a v-belt. It was a full system, with external regulator, echo charger and isolated. In your case look for a little bigger alternator, maybe 70-80 amps with an internal reg. What other means do you have to charge? Solar, wind, plug-in or is engine the main means to charge?

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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 08 Nov 2018 21:28 
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Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
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We use solar. Is there a link to a 70-80 amp alternator with an internal regulator that is the exact replacement for a W50? That's what I'm looking for. Thanks for any info.

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Zach Duncan
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 09 Nov 2018 07:15 
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Tactictian

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 103
Ray has a really good post on one of these recent threads about battery charging and voltage regulation. Well worth the read. My W-50 turned over 7,000 hours this summer and still has the stock alternator and stock regulator. The regulator is not internal but is down below the onboard fuel filter. With your alternate charging sources, you probably don’t need anything more than what that setup puts out. You can fine an old fashion automotive electric shop and they could rebuild your alternator and even if you do buy a new one, I would suggest you do that and keep it as a spare. The alternator you tagged on Amazon looks right. It would surprise me if that was internally regulated but again, the regulator should be cheap and readily available. 1971 MGB had the same engine block and the voltage regulator LOOKS the same ($29.00 online) but I would do a bit more research before you buy.


 
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2018 20:26 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 467
I would not look too far for a “special alternator”, especially with your use. When I was out cruising and fixing a lot of my fellow cruisers boats I a lot of those powder coated expensive Marine alternators that were burned up. If you have the old Westerbeke you can put just about anything on it and it will work—(you might have to bend some brackets, but it will work.) for backup. I ran a 100 amp Ample Power alternator on my old Westerbeke for thousands of hours and a lot of heavy duty charging in the tropics with no problems. Anyway, I ordered an 80 amp alternator backup when I installed my Yanmar 3JH new engine that has less room and requires special dimensions. (I use an external regulator, but left the internal regulator on my new backup so that I have a backup no matter what happens—either failure of alternator or regulator). I ordered this Chinese alternator from some place on EBay. I think I paid $60 delivered. When I got it, the stamping on it was identical to the original that came on the Yanmar engine—I am positive it came from the same plant. Looked at the diodes—exactly the same. There is an enormous amount of hype in the yachting electrical world. They all put out rated for about 2 minutes until the alternator heats up and then your smart regulator kicks in 15 minutes later, and cuts that charge back to nothing if your batteries are not really discharged—so they remain undercharged. As I have previously railed, smart regulators are not necessarily much needed for 99% of us. So having a huge alternator is, for most folks, a huge waste of money. Anyway, you already knew that apparently.
Everyone should have some solar topping ability (or else be on a shore charger) and battery monitor system so that you know amps in and out. Once you see what is actually going on in your system the hype becomes apparent.


 
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 28 Nov 2018 22:27 
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Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 321
So, the back of the new alternator looks like the picture below. It's the one from Amazon from the original post above. I'm trying to figure out the wiring. There are 2 problems I'm having trouble with:
1. Where does the tach wire go? On the old alternator it is soldered under where the "Reg" arrow post is. Can it go to the "Reg" post?
2. The old alternator is wired to a regulator that I have found goes to old Ford cars. Regulator and old alternator are pictured below. My new alternator, even though it looks like my old alternator, is supposed to be "internally regulated". I'm guessing since there is an external regulator in the system that the old alternator is not internally regulated? Can I wire the new regulator through the old external regulator? Or do I need to exclude the external regulator now? One thing I notice is where the "Field" wire goes from the external regulator to the old alternator is the same place on the new alternator labelled as "EXC" (I'm guessing exciter). Is that the same thing?

Edit: I think this is exactly what I bought. http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/ ... 8MR2048KA#

You can hit next on the pictures at the top and it gets to a wiring diagram.

I am very confused. How is this supposed to be wired? Can anyone get me steered in the right direction? Thanks, Zach


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Zach Duncan
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 29 Nov 2018 12:50 
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Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 321
Ok, I posted questions like the above to a couple groups on line and have come up with these answers so far. Please let me know if this sounds correct. Check the pics below too.

B+ (POS) goes to the positive battery (or starter), B- (NEG) is the ground (doesn't need to be connected), D+(Reg) goes to an indicator lamp that I don't have so leave empty, EXC terminal (yellow wire) goes to my ignition switch. And tach I can connect to the AC Tap. And I can just get rid of the old regulator and associated wiring. Does this sound right?

For the old regulator that is going in the trash: wire going to the ignition circuit (purple). This I will move to the EXC terminal on the new Alt. It also had a wire going to the battery positive (small red). I will remove this wire. The last wire (green) went to what I believe was the "Field" post on the old alternator. I will remove that as well. Sound right?


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Zach Duncan
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 30 Nov 2018 17:24 
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Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 321
Fired it up today, and it seemed to work. If anyone has any questions about putting on a new alternator without trying to upgrade or learn about smart regulators or even learn alternator theory, I'll try to help. Can't tell you how many "unsimple" answers I got through this whole process while looking for things like "that wire goes there." Smile

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Zach Duncan
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 Post subject: Re: W50 Alternator
PostPosted: 05 Dec 2018 09:40 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 467
I did not pick this up when you posted, but your information seems correct. You seem to have discovered that there is an amazing amount of hype in marine charging and battery systems and that most of the stuff the marine magazines and boat show folks try to sell you are just going to complicate your life. Unless you are running a trawler down the ICW for days on end, you do not need a “smart” regulator and any battery capacity over twice your daily consumption is just going to cause you problems with charging and participating in the death of your batteries. Take if from someone who has learned the hard way. Go simple and enjoy sailing and adventuring.
Ray Durkee
T37 #373


 
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